Float Pin Retaining Screw is Stuck/Frozen

[bobberfishin]

I'm in the process of rebuilding the carbs on my 70 hp 2 stroke, 2004 Yamaha. The screw that holds the float pin down (in place) will not loosen at all. I mean it will not budge. I stripped out the one on the top carb. So I decided to clean the bowls & jets thoroughly, and not try to make anything worse. Changed the gaskets & O-rings, and soaked all metal parks in Gunk.

I can't get to the parts under the float to change them.

Anybody else ever have this problem? What's the recommended method to get these screws to move? I just hate getting this far along & can't replace all of the rings, springs, & needle valves.

Any & all help would be greatly appreciated.

[Dennisg]

HI, you might try applying some heat. I once tried heat to a carb, as a last resort, and it worked.
Dennis

[rorkin]

HI, you might try applying some heat. I once tried heat to a carb, as a last resort, and it worked.
Dennis

Be very careful.. Aluminum or Die Cast will melt with verry little heat..
Penetrating oil and trying to drive the pin out wont work ??

[bobberfishin]

It's not the pin, but the screw that's holding the pin down. This is the pin that the float moves up & down on in the carb bowl. To change any parts below the carb bowl it looks like this screw needs to be removed, then the pin and all of the other pieces are accessible.
The rebuild carb kits have rings, springs, brass fittings that go under this pin/float assembly at the hinge (pin) point.

i had that problem and all i did was hit the end of the screw driver a few time and it broke loose...

[bobberfishin]

I didn't soak the carb housing that had the float attached (still can't get the screw to loosen) in any GUNK. The instructions on the GUNK 1 gallon container w/ the soak basket, say not to place any plastic items in it. But the parts that were all metal soaked for about 20-25 minutes.
I did spray the living crap (pun intended) out of them. Let them soak w/ carb cleaner, then sprayed them again & let soak. Blew them off w/ compressed air & let dry for another 30 minutes just to be sure.

Took the boat out in freshwater on Wed & it ran great. So we went out in Tampa Bay on Thursday to do a little fishing & it ran like a charm. Full throttle ran hard & strong. Idled very good when in neutral. It was pretty windy & choppy on the water, so I thought that any particles that could have survived all of the cleaning would get moved around & give us problems again & clogg up any valves, filters or openings.

But Noooo! It ran great all day

I must admit doing the repairs yourself was not that hard, and a very good education. I wouldn't hesitate doing again & saving 300-400 from the "so-called" experts around here. Pretty proud of myself too. "I think I can, I think I can,I think I can"

You people on this forum are a great asset to us "rookies".

Thanks to everyone that had any ideas or suggestions to make boating and repairs better (& cheaper)

I certainly appreciate all of the expert advise

Bob