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Is the oil filter in the remote tank necessary?

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  • Is the oil filter in the remote tank necessary?

    When the oil tank on engine needs refilling, the buzzer goes off,
    I then take engine cover off and fill manually until tank fills........
    Shouldn't the tank fill automatically? I some times use the switch on computer to fill tank but it takes about 20 minutes. I changed the filter on the remote tank and same thing happens. Can I eliminate the filter to see if tank fills faster? Do I really need that filter? What else could be my problem?
    How does the tank fill automatically?

  • #2
    It should only take about 3 minutes to fill tank when completely empty, there may be a pinched oil hose or remote elect oil pump is bad. Yes you need to keep filter.
    Regards
    Boats.net
    Yamaha Outboard Parts

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    • #3
      When is tank actually supposed to fill? When does the remote tank start pumping oil? When my oil runs low my buzzer goes off and computer starts to make engine run rough until I stop, I take cover off and manually fill reservoir
      tank, every twenty minutes at WOT.

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      • #4
        Interestingly, your pump is working, (by using the toggle switch) but is very slow. More than likely, the pump is going bad. If your aux tank is located low in the bilge, water usually sloshes on the pump and over time will infiltrate it. (The pump is on the back side of the tank, mounted in a recess built into the tank. You can't see it if your tank is mounted next to the transom.) While not fun, I would remove the remote tank from the mounting location and leave it hooked up. The pump should turn on when the engine tank goes below about 3/4 full. You can check the voltage going to it and see if it is being signaled to run by the engine tank sensor (using a multimeter and the wiring diagram in a factory manual). My opinion is that your engine is outrunning the slow flow of the pump or the pump sensor float (in the tank on the engine) is not signaling your pump. As the member above pointed out, check for kinks in the line coming from the tank but if clear, the pump is suspect. If it is really rusty but still running, I would replace. If ok looking and still running, remove it from the tank, put some extra feed lines on it and test it to see if it pulls some oil from a cup(you can get cheap lines from home depot). If it pumps OK and faster than the switch on the computer you might have something blocking the feed line ahead of the filter(unlikely). The manual has a cryptic description of the system but again, if mounted low and you get any kind of water in your bilge, it is probably bad. This site has the best prices on the pump (not cheap). Your detective work will be cheaper than paying someone to do it but it might be worth your time just to yank it out and replace it if you verify that you have power to it when the engine tank is below 3/4. If you have no power to the pump when the engine tank is low, then solve that problem before replacing. (around 100.00+ for the pump, I didn't look up yours though) (still, cheaper than the first hour of "check out time" without the pump from a dealer.) Again, check all lines for kinks. Good luck.

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        • #5
          Thank you.... I ordered a new pump from this site, 109.00
          I should have it by end of week.

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