lower unit oil bad?

Hi.

I replaced my lower unit oil and it came out looking like coffee with cream. I ran the motor for around 10 hours with the new oil and then changed it again. It came out basically looking the same. I put it in a mason jar and let it sit for about a week.

For the first few days it seemed like there were white particles mixed into the oil. After 4 or 5 days the white particles have settled to the bottom and now the oil looks like this:

It hasnt changed color, just the white particles have settled.

Is my oil bad? Do I have a water leak?

My local yamaha deal said that it was fine, but he didnt see it.
I use the boat in high mountain lakes mostly over 6000'
I also usually park the boat with the motor tilted because my driveway isnt flat.

thanks,
john

could I use something like this?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Vacuu...QQcmdZViewItem

maybe a dumb question but,

Should I do the pressure test with the oil removed from the lower unit?

-John

[Hamfisted]

What motor is it?

Water contamination. What year and model motor is it? The common water entry points are the drain/vent plug gaskets and the driveshaft seal (located under the water-pump...). The drain/vent gaskets are easy to replace, but replacing the drive-shaft seal requires dropping the lower unit and removing the water-pump. The drive-shaft seal has a radius spring around the seal lip that likes to break, and this allows water under pressure from the water-pump cavity to work its way down the drive-shaft and into the lower unit in short order. The other seal entry point is the prop shaft seal located just where the prop-shaft exits the carrier housing. This seal gets damaged from fishing line wrapping around the prop-shaft. Its an easy fix as well. I assume you pulled the prop and inspected the shaft for any line or wire wrapped around it right? In any event you can discover these leaks during a pressure test. Just apply pressure and put some soapy water around these areas and you should see bubbles form up. Do you have a service manual for the motor?




- Mike

Water contamination. What year and model motor is it? The common water entry points are the drain/vent plug gaskets and the driveshaft seal (located under the water-pump...). The drain/vent gaskets are easy to replace, but replacing the drive-shaft seal requires dropping the lower unit and removing the water-pump. The drive-shaft seal has a radius spring around the seal lip that likes to break, and this allows water under pressure from the water-pump cavity to work its way down the drive-shaft and into the lower unit in short order. The other seal entry point is the prop shaft seal located just where the prop-shaft exits the carrier housing. This seal gets damaged from fishing line wrapping around the prop-shaft. Its an easy fix as well. I assume you pulled the prop and inspected the shaft for any line or wire wrapped around it right? In any event you can discover these leaks during a pressure test. Just apply pressure and put some soapy water around these areas and you should see bubbles form up. Do you have a service manual for the motor?

I swapped the plug gaskets when I changed the oil 2 times ago. So I dont think it was that.

It is a 2004 F25

I have not checked the prop shaft yet for fishing line

I do have a service manual.

I will do a compression test and check out the prop shaft tonight. Thanks!

when i pressure tested today it leaked at 14psi (manual said to go to 14.2) assuming my gauge was accurate.

I heard air leaking and the sound was coming from the water intake screens.

The prop feels like its stuck and I am having trouble getting it off. I am having trouble getting the outside spacer off.

Does it pull off, or screw off?

thanks!