2003 Yamaha F115TXRC

My Yamaha 115 has only aprox. 150-200hrs on it. After winter storage I went to start it and it would not start. I charged my two batteries and tried again to start it and when I turned the ignition switch on I had to jiggle the key to get the volt gauge to move and it was regestering 13.5-14 volts and when I turned the ignition on it would drop and the engine would still not start. I removed the cover to the engine and stright wired the starter and it would spin but would not engage the starter bendix and turn the engine over.I then lifted up the gear so that it was engaging the top gear and jumped it again and the engine turned over but then the bendix gear went back down and contiuned spinning. Dose anyone have an Idea what to check before I buy a new Starter Relay Assembly or a new Starter or could it even be my ignition switch?

[boats.net]

Start with battery and work your way to engine. Have battery tested, clean and check battery terminals and cables at battery and on engine.

I cleaned all of the connections and took the batteries down and had them checked and both are at top performance and still won't start!

If the Batteries are backwards,then why did the engine run for 150-200 hrs. I know a little about engines as I taught auto shop for five years just not outboards.

Have a PERKO Battery switch and have checked my wiring diagram and every thing is in proper order. I did Disconnect it and went back to one battery just in case and still engine won't start.

[boats.net]

Check fuses on engine. Test for voltage at starter relay, if don't have 12 volts at brown wire with key in start position then may be a problem with key switch, harness or neutral safety switch. Work your way to starter checking for low or no voltage.

Thank You Boat.net I'll have to wait to try tommorrow , I'll let you know how it turns out.

[cyrillefrenchy]

usually where the starter spins but do not engage, you don't have full electric power to the starter.
it could be weak battery, partially bad starter relay, (the full amperage does not travel thru the relay, 12v in, 12v out but not enough power to kick)
bad or partially corroded battery wires or terminals, (all the terminals need to be checked, battery and main switch side, starter relay, starter connections inside the rubber boots and also the wire itself where it is crimped inside the terminal), main battery switch corroded inside but also the ground ( very important)
if nothing looks bad, the best way is to jump the starter directly with a battery and jumpr cables ( not going thru relays , ignition switches and all that) and see what happens.
if it kicks good, start checking all over again, if no good, bad starter, take it apart and check .
i have seen a few battery cables turning bad inside the bilge, they have been damaged during rigging or rubbing and they corrode slowly and fail a few years later
let us know
excuse my frenglish
frenchy

Cyrillefrenchy, I ordered a factory repair manual and hope to get it today. I will do the checks you suggested and let you know the results. Thank You.

[cyrillefrenchy]

ok great we wait for your diagnostic, it's always good to know.
the book won't tell you where is your probleme, it will just tells you how to check components, book is always helpfull.
frenchy

I want to thank all of you that helped me track down my electrical problem. I tracked it back to the ignition switch and have one on the way. With your help and the repair manual and a voltage meter it didn't take long. I wasn't getting any voltage from the switch to the starter every thing ckecked out by your suggestions and the manual. Again Thank You! From Palm Bay, FL