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My steering arm is completely rusted and needs replacement because it is about to snap. What is involved in changing this? Is there anywhere I can get a step by step guide or can you provide me with this info? Also, if this arm is rusted is there anything else I should or could change while I have this apart (like the steering rod maybe). I am trying to avoid taking off the powerhead if at all possible.
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Jeff -
It basicaly has to be disassembled down to transom bracket. Remove powerhead and drive shaft housing, sometimes the lower bracket(lower motor mount bracket) on steering arm needs to be heated up with torch to get off. -
obayman2 - I'm getting ready to attempt the same thing with my '90 200s. The steering arms have to be replaced and unfortunately repowering is not an option.
Here's what I've been told while asking around. Please anyone correct me if I've been given bad info.
If the powerhead hasn't been removed since the motor was first assembled and has been used primarily in salt water, getting it off will be a royal pain in the ***.
If you can get the block off and the rest disassembled, check the shift rod for corrosion. If it looks bad (and it probably will) I'd go ahead and replace that with a new stainless one.
If you can get your hands on a good used midsection from a salvage yard, that would save a lot of time and effort. I've been unable to locate two as of yet. I think you can use a midsection from 175-225HP for your motor, but check with the online Yamaha outboard parts page and make sure.
I went ahead and ordered the repair manual from Yamaha. I've heard its a lot more detailed than the standard off the shelf repair manuals.
Good luck. I'll post whatever progress I make in this thread.Comment
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Repair manual arrived. Looks pretty thorough and not too hard to use. The exploded diagrams with torques and tool model numbers are worth the price.
Bolts are soaking right now. I haven't tried to pull any out yet but will try this weekend.Comment
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Update - Caught a big break. The mechanic that replaced the shift rod before we bought the boat put plenty of grease on the head bolts. Got all of the head bolts out with minimal difficulty save for 2. PB Blaster soaking right now and hopefully they'll come off. Having trouble getting some of the lower unit bolts to come out but soaking them as well.
So far, so good. We've been really lucky.Comment
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Sounds like great news. I managed to get the powerhead off yesterday and also broke 2 bolts. I've got them soaking as well and will try to use some heat to get the studs out. I also cut off the old steering arm and replaced it and the shifter rod with new parts. So, aside from the 2 bolts, I now only have to remember how it all goes back together again. Do you know if there is anything on the bottom of the powerhead that I should change while I have it separated - any kind of oil seal or something? I see a round piece bolted to the bottom of the powerhead and it has a small pipelike extension (about one inch) that sticks into the next section. Looks tight but...haven't read much on this part yet.JeffComment
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Not sure what else needs to be replaced before you reassemble. I'll look through the manual tonight and see if anything is listed.
Could that round piece on the bottom of the block be an alignment guide/drift pin?
Once you got the head off, how difficult was it to get the steering bracket off? I've heard that getting the powerhead off is only half the battle but your post makes it wound like it wasn't too bad.Comment
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The steering bracket is essentially held on by 4 bolts - 2 on the steering arm (which are usually the rusted ones) and 2 (cap nuts I think they are called) at the bottom. I cut the two top ones with a sawsall and un bolted the bottom ones with no trouble. The entire piece with swivel tube etc comes off at this point. I stopped here and haven't looked to see what actually holds the arm on but whatever it is it feels like everything is pretty well greased and will come apart easily - famous last words right? I'll be working on it again this weekend and will let you know.JeffComment
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Did you have to remove the lower unit to get the steering arm replaced? We're having trouble with some of the lower unit bolts and I'd rather not mess with them if we don't have to take the lower unit off.
Broke two head bolts yesterday and it looks like we'll make it 3 before its all over.Comment
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One other question for you. How did you get the powerhead off? The manual says you need to get a special lifting ring that attaches in place of the flywheel nut. Was wondering if you got one of those or if you used the u-bracket over the pistons (I assume this was used to lift the motors in place at the factory).
How difficult was it to get the powerhead off with broken bolts?
Thanks.Comment
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I spent the weekend finishing up the motor - found a used midsection and took the swivel part off with steering arm as one piece. I took the lower unit off of my engine because I was going to change the impeller etc anyway. I'm trying to remember if I absolutely had to though. As long as the drive shaft doesn't pass through this piece I would say you need not remove the lower unit because there is nothing else but the shift rod which comes out from the top.
I also used the "U" bracket to remove the powerhead. The problem is that the motor is then off center and the powerhead gets caught up on the broken bolt studs (if they broke below the engine). I muscled it out and it was tough - I had the entire engine on the hoist (less the lower unit) and I was standing on the lowest part (the back point of the mid-section) and really hopping and shaking from the pan until the powerhead jarred loose and the lower unit fell off. I then saw that the broken bolt stud was part of the issue. I would say that if you can get the center ring to bolt on to the flywheel bolt then do it. I think the powerhead may still be hard to separate from the midsection but at least you know the broken bolts won't do any damage (and I only had one of the six broken).
Anyway...heated the engine case around the bolt and sprayed it and it came right out with vice-grips.
Let me know how you make out.JeffComment
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I'm having a hard time finding that block lifting eyebolt. Local Yamaha parts dealer said that it would be better if I got an aftermarket one, that the one from Yamaha would probably be about $100. Haven't had any luck yet, so unfortunately on hold right now. We will probably try to use the u-bolt like you did but don't expect to get far with it.
Have you had your boat out yet?Comment
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Called the folks on this site and they sent a lifting bolt ASAP. It arrived today so we'll see this weekend whether or not the powerheads come off.Comment
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Went on vacation, so back at it this weekend.
obayman2 - you had your boat in the water since the rebuild?Comment
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Boat has been in the water a few times and runs perfect so far. I have an extra lower unit that is cracked and I am now considering whether or not to find a replacement housing and swap over the internals. Ever do something like this? Looks like an awful lot of parts inside and some specialty tools as well.JeffComment
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