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1992 c115 intermittent problem accelerating

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  • 1992 c115 intermittent problem accelerating

    Looking for some help with a problem that is plaguing me and got me stranded yesterday. Frequently, the motor will bog down when trying to accelerate. Revving it in neutral fixes it temporarily, but sometimes it will die when it is having this problem and I put it into neutral. I first thought it was a fuel supply problem. My primer bulb stays hard, and I have tried squeezing it when having the problem and there is no change. I have hit the choke when having the problem, and no change. Replaced water seperator, inline filter cartridge and plugs. No change.

    Somebody told me that it could be the powerpack going bad.

    Any ideas or suggestions?

    Thank you
    Scott

  • #2
    pull off airbox, run on hose and choke each throat with your finger..do the rpms change ?
    pull each plug wire at a time listening for the same change.
    even tho your ball stays hard, run on an auxillary tank to rule out YOUR tank.
    have you changed out fuel lines and pumps?
    OH and if you have a fuel line junction at the motor, do yourself a favor and rid of it and all unnecessary junctions.

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    • #3
      Thanks for the reply jb123, Haven't changed out the lines orfuel pump, and haven't run on auxillary tank. Should I change out all of the fuel lines and the pump? Even the small lines connecting the filter under the cowling?
      Scott

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      • #4
        line is so cheap i would run all new right up to the filter on motor, and the only juction needed is the ball and seperator. also pull out your pickup tube ad inspect that also, some manufacturers put check valves and screens on them, i personally dont care for them.
        most problems are fuel related/ carbs so after these checks you should consider cleaning carbs and resyncing.

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        • #5
          >Frequently, the motor will bog down when trying to accelerate.

          One of my V4s had the same problem and the motor needed a new powerpack. I could not believe it so I did all the carb work and adjustings many times before replacing the powerpack...

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          • #6
            sure...you COULD go expensive first then work your way back down the chain.
            ALL of these things should be done ANYway as preventative maintenance.

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            • #7
              Fuel problem would be a relief as it would be cheaper. Will look harder at that.

              I have had this problem since last August. Wouldn't the powerpack just quit by now? I go out 3 or 4 times a month.

              I just read in my shop manual that reversing polarity would ruin the CDI. I hooked up the battery charger backwards once, but can't remember if that was on the starting battery or my deep cycle. The charger has built in protection for such a mistake and I remember the indicator light coming on immediately and correcting the problem within seconds of powering up the charger. Could That fry the CDI or something else?
              Scott

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              • #8
                >sure...you COULD go expensive first then work your way back down the chain.

                I said that I did all the carb work and adjustings many times before replacing the powerpack. When I said that I could not belive it I meant that I could not believe it. I don't speak English - I don't understand the nuances in how you took my reply.

                Good luck gsb.

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                • #9
                  Update:
                  brought boat home to do some work tonight. Fired it up on the muffs and it would not stay running at idle. Changed the primer bulb since I had a new one onboard and that did not improve anything. Opened the CDI to look at wires and check for tightness. A few needed tightening, and one is stripped out. It will not tighten up. That worries me. So I closed that back up, and went back to the fuel system. Pulled the water seperator and emptied in glass. No water. Installed new water seperator, and when squeezing the primer bulb I heard air escaping then fuel begins to pour out around the quick connect at the motor (second time recently). I changed out the quick connect, since I had one onboard then tested the engine on the muffs again. Fired right up and idled great! I was using a seperator from the auto parts. could that be a problem?
                  Now, I know better than to get too excited, but I will be taking her out for a test spin tomorrow evening if I can.

                  Unresolved problems:
                  -stripped out screw in the CDI unit
                  -quick connect keeps going bad?
                  -fuel/water Seperator I had is from Auto parts and is not yamaha or "marine", does that make a difference?
                  Scott

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    To eliminate any future problems, always replace any part with an OEM part from Yamaha. Never, Never botch anything with some off brand filter, etc.

                    Replace the "quick gas connect" at the engine housing with a new one from Boats.Net.. On the loose bolt matter, just re-tap with a larger threader and go that route...

                    You might consider buying a "electric primer unit" and throw the primer bulb away. I have used the electric primer for over twenty years, and never had any problems..

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                    • #11
                      follow up

                      I forgot to post my follow up.

                      Changed out fuel pump after picking up the boat from the shop. They could not get it to act up and charged me nothing.

                      Since the fuel pump things have been fine with the motor.

                      Thanks to everyone for the help.

                      Scott
                      Scott

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