200 HPDI no spark

[numbskull]

2001 200 hpdi died while idling (after running at cruise speed for 30+ minutes without a hint of trouble), will spin but won't start, not even a cough. No spark (discovered after changing out all the fuel filters). Kill switch seems OK (no continuity with clip in/continuity with clip out), gauges work, neutral switch tests OK, I changed out the fuse holder after both relays seemed to fail repeated continuity tests as specified in the service manual (though I was skeptical about it), still no luck. Any ideas about something simple? Might it still be the ignition switch? How do I check that? Thanks.

[jb123]

check to see if you have a neutral kill on gear linkage at motor.
i think you should be able to pull the 10 pin harness apart and start/turn over with a jumper cable at starter.
im not sure if your year motor has the brown wire at your starter relay but that will also start/turnover motor, the older models had that.

[numbskull]

Thank you for the reply. The starter spins the engine fine when the ignition key is turned, the battery is charged, and the neutral switch works to spec. I must be getting power to the fuse box, and I just replaced it (unneccessarily it appears), so the main and driver relays should be OK. Still no spark that I can see, even with the spark tester set narrow. Might the ignition switch or it's harness still be to blame? Seems the most likely thing to fail since it is exposed. But how can I test it without replacing it? Any help would be appreciated.

[Ken]

'skull,
Looking at the electrical diagram for my C115, the two wires for the neutral switch are pink and white that connect from the switch to the CDI.
I do not see a 12 volt connection to the CDI - don't know if yours is the same or not.
I would check the pink and white wire to see if they are measuring continuity/no continuity when you go into/out of neutral at the remote. If that checks ok, then I would suspect either the charge coil or pulser coil of the stator.
The Yamaha manual has a testing procedure for both coils.
If the charge and pulser coils check ok, then the CDI is suspect.
Good luck [img]smile.gif[/img] ,
Ken K

[numbskull]

Thanks, Ken. I'll check it out next. Unfortunately I don't have the test harness' to check out the control unit or pulsar coil. Can I just test across one lead to black while the others are disconnected, or will that damage the pulsar coil? I did swap out the ignition switch (by borrowing a friend's), and that does not appear to be the issue. .

[numbskull]

Turns out I am way off. The spark tester was faulty. A neighbor, brighter than I, suggested a second test for spark......try to start with a squirt of ether......I did and it ran briefly. So I am back to fuel issues. Since I get fuel easily to the vapor separator by squeezing the bulb, I assume the problem is in there. Couple of questions. If I jump 12 volts directly to the electric pump leads should I hear it run? Could a problem with the pressure regulator or fuel strainer kill an engine suddenly in idle, and keep it from starting, after it ran fine at 3600 rpm? Any ideas on what to check next (while waiting for a pro)?

[jb123]

spark tester faulty...what happened to the old, lay the plug on a bolt and turn over or pull plug wire and listen for the arc?

check low pressure and hp fuel pumps and the vapor tank filter.

[jb123]

ooops you have no efi but hpdi but def sounds like fuel delivery.