DO YOU NEED A SPECIAL TOOL FOR REMOVAL OF PROPELLER SHAFT BEARING HOUSING (PART NO. 69J-45332-00-94)TO REPLACE OIL SEALS.
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2002 F225TXRA PROPELLER SHAFT REMOVAL
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Joe,
I watched my mechanic (the one I go to when I am in over my head) overhaul the lower unit on a 95 C115 last year.
He used a "slide-hammer" and attached it to the shaft housing somehow. I don't remember if he attached using a couple of threaded bolts or just "claws" like you find on wheel pullers.
Hope this helps [img]smile.gif[/img] ,
Ken K
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You can do it with a slide hammer with the proper jaws on it. Do you see it leaking oil around the shaft or something? The most common water intrusion point is the driveshaft seal under the waterpump. There is a radius tension spring on the seal that likes to break and allow water into the lower unit.
What's your email.
Mike
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You can see my previous posting on removeing lower unit. I don't recommend this for the weak! I manufacturesd a "puller" in the following manner. I had a piece of flat steel ~3/8# thick 6X6 inches. I drilled a center hole in the steel to go over the shaft without it damaging the splines of the shaft. I manufactured 2 threaded bolts (stainless) to act as hooks to pull on the bearing carrier. The steel plate then received 2 holes the proper distance apart to use to pull against the plate. Large washers with bolts on far side of plate and marine greese on the threads of the "hooks" I sprayed a liberal amount of liquid wrench to the bearing housing and pulled it off without difficulty. (I just pulled a little and sprayed over a few days). Carefull with the heat as it burns up all the seals and these are a pain to remove when they melt (They'll need to be replaced as well as any O-rings. Care that your hooks don't dig into the aluminum (they should fit firmly into the "fins" of the bearing housing. It takes longer to type this than build this by the way.
Send me an e-mail and I'll take a picture of my puller! (It is now for sale as I'll never do that again LOL)
Mark
m.erich@comcast.net
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Copy and paste the following link to veiw a photo of my puller!
Mark
http://home.comcast.net/~m.erich/PULLER.JPG
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Joe,
Now that I think about it more, I believe my mechanic did attach his slide hammer to the prop shaft.
There was just a flat plate on the end of the slide hammer with a hole to fit over the shaft.
Then he just used the prop nut to hold in place.
I don't recall he had to hit the shaft very hard with the slide hammer. I do remember him using a lot of liquid wrench and heat from the torch.
Good luck [img]smile.gif[/img] ,
Ken K
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The picture wasn't perfect. The plate actually has a center hole which goes over the prop shaft and like the previos posting, you can use the prop nut to secure it. 2 other hole were in the plate to put the bolts through. The big silver things are just extentions as my bolts were too short.
Still a cool tool!
Mark
http://home.comcast.net/~m.erich/PULLER.JPG
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Joe,
Glad that worked. I guess you have a manual by this point in time! If not its time to buy one. The manual will tell you how to get the gear off if it stayed attached to the bearing carrier housing. (Mine said to gently pry it off with two screwdrivers, but it was a much smaller engine). Don't do more repairs than you have to.
I assume you saw water in the lower unit to start with and a leak at the prop bearing? Like Hamfister said most leaks are from the seal under the water pump (I've read this numerous times...I'm no expert!), so check and replace that one as well. Don't start messing with the pinion, etc unless you want to go replace the lower unit like I did LOL.
Mark
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