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  • #16
    Also you'll notice in the vid that mainly the areas where the corrosion was present could you see the tiny bubbles. Some areas like the middle and bottom walls didn't produce that many bubbles. I'm assuming that there was less corrosion in tose areas.

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    • #17
      Very impressive, hot topic descaling because of the tufness of the corrosion and the use of acids eating good metal.
      My last cleaning was the initial use of a scraper and elbow grease, then I used CLA , a diluted Phosphoric Acid solution ,for a short time and scrubbed with hot water, I'll use this next time seeing that there is a product available for use in "Australian conditions".

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      • #18
        Here's some pics of the cylinder head before and after bath, noting I did scrap the bulk of the crap out first. It's worth mentioning that once you pull it out of the solution the alloy looks dull straight out. However once you wipe it down, and run it under fresh water it comes up nice and clean.
        Attached Files

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        • #19
          Looks GREAT!!

          How bad was the cylinder passages / block and I gather you have those cleaned up?
          Scott
          1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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          • #20
            At first it looked like a considerable amount of corrosion, but after a bit of scrapping and sanding it revealed a fairly decent block. The passages were blocked in some areas with a lot of those salt jelly crystals and calcium stuff, but I picked and scrapped and used a trusty paddle pop stick and coarse sandpaper to clean up the passage ways. I did try to use a brass wire brush initially on the block and head but I think the brush I had was too stiff as you can tell by some of the scoring, but once I sanded them down with 800 grit paper (block) it turned out ok.

            a lot of help from using compressed air, and then later sprayed it with some salt away. I also got a thin flexible wire from some old wiper blades off the car which I used to scrap the water intake pipe (lower unit taken off) as I didn’t have a wire pipe cleaner long enough. Then I kept flushing the passages with water and then compressed air.

            After that I soaked several rags with Subaru upper engine cleaner and left them in the cylinders overnight which made cleaning the piston heads easy work.
            Attached Files

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            • #23
              Maybe you'll get another 20 years out of it.

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              • #24
                Looks really, really good... Saved about $1k doing it yourself

                I missed something, why you pulling the LU apart?
                Scott
                1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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                • #25
                  Hi hope so. The boat was originally my grandfathers, we use to fish in Darwin with it, but later I moved to Sydney. He then gave me the boat which I arranged to have it shipped down. The motor has never been serviced before besides the usual flush after trips, it even had the original spark plugs in them as he told me he had never changed them. Sort of confirms the saying that Yammies are built to last I suppose.

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                  • #26
                    You do not need our help...great job.

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                    • #27
                      I pulled the LU off because I suspected the seals had worn because there was some oil leaks. After taking the prop off I confirmed the seal had deteriorating, so I decided to buy all the seals for the lower. All the parts were ordered via this site. Everyone on this forum provided great support. After putting it all back together, I crossed my fingers that the pressure test would pass, and it luckily held the pressure

                      Essentially I figured since my grandfather never serviced it, it was about time to give it one. I'm not a qualified mechanic, but I've always serviced my own car, so I figured I'd give the outboard a try. I admit there were a few hours of research, but it was worth it.

                      The hardest part out of the project has trying to get the propeller housing out. The hook bolts I got from Bunnings weren't really strong enough, so everytime I tightened them, the hook would actually straighten and slip. But after a few hits to the outer casing and hours of re-bending the hooks back, the housing finally budged.
                      Attached Files

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                      • #29
                        Great job.

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                        • #30
                          Thank guys.

                          Now after putting everything back together and taking it out for a test run. I've attached my huge reward!!! lol IMG_6809.JPG

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