Which Blue Sea Battery Kit

[SlayerT123]

Hi All,

I'm in the process of adding a 2nd battery and was thinking of getting the Blue Sea Batt Kit, however I'm unsure which Kit to get.

The options are:

1) Mini Add a Battery - 65A
2) Add a Battery - 120A

https://www.bluesea.com/products/765...ery_Kit_-_120A

Unfortunately I'm not sure which one to get to suit my motor's Alternator Charging output (Amps).

I have a Yamaha 1997 40VETO (similar to 40TLRV) 2 Stroke, but I can't seem to find out how many Amps the Alternator outputs. If I ended up getting the 120A, would it still work, or is it overkill?

Any additional recommendations are welcomed

Regards,
Tom

[boscoe99]

Neither on the Blue Seas. But either will work.

Much more bang for the buck (65 bucks) and easier to install is a Yandina Combiner. Does the exact same thing that a Blue Seas of an F300 Offshore model will do.

Combiner 100 Sheet

The output capacity of your motor is an over whelming 6 amperes. But only at full throttle.

[SlayerT123]

Hahaha 6A.

Thanks for the recommendation Boscoe, I'll contact one of the sellers in Australia and purchase one.

I take it I'll still be able to connect the Combiner 100 to a Isolator switch as well.

Tom

[DennisG01]

Would it make sense to have a traditional 1-2-Both-Off switch? So that way, say when you're on the hook, you can switch to #2, for example. If you happen to kill that battery, you still have #1 to start the engine. Then, once running, you can switch to #2 and direct all 6 of those powerful amps to the dead battery for best charging. Blue Seas, Perko, Guest (probably others) all make these switches. Just a thought.

I always thought a battery switch was rated more for what the starter motor would pull?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Would it make sense to have a traditional 1-2-Both-Off switch? So that way, say when you're on the hook, you can switch to #2, for example. If you happen to kill that battery, you still have #1 to start the engine. Then, once running, you can switch to #2 and direct all 6 of those powerful amps to the dead battery for best charging. Blue Seas, Perko, Guest (probably others) all make these switches. Just a thought.

I always thought a battery switch was rated more for what the starter motor would pull?

Reading the spec sheet for the Combiner, it does exactly what a manual switch does automatically.

Automatically charges both batteries (when there is a charging current), disconnects one when there isn't..

There is are 2 "on / off" additional options as well.


.

[DennisG01]

Interesting. Have never really looked into these before. If I understand it correctly, though, when the engine is running it's always on "both" -- meaning, I can't charge just one battery at a time. It's always charging both batteries? I think I still like the idea of being able to send 100% of the charging juice to a single battery, when needed. But that's just my opinion.

How reliable are these devices? Manual battery switches are typically one of the most reliable things on a boat.

Question... let's say one battery completely dies while on the hook. With a manual switch, I can select the good battery ONLY and have full battery power available to start the engine. But with the combiner, it sounds like it will select BOTH batteries since as soon as the engine is turning over, it's creating charging juice (which activates the combiner). I know I'm stretching a little here, but in this case the good battery will not only be trying to start the engine, but also be "charging" the bad battery. If the engine is one that sometimes takes a bit of cranking to start, then that could cause an issue? Of course, the solution, would be to manually disconnect the bad battery and get it out of the circuit. But hopefully that is realized before the good battery looses it's power.

Again, just my opinion, but it seems like it's an expensive venture (adding in whatever those two optional on/off things are) when a $45 manual switch does it all? But hey, that's why there are opinions and options!

[boscoe99]

Interesting. Have never really looked into these before. If I understand it correctly, though, when the engine is running it's always on "both" -- meaning, I can't charge just one battery at a time. It's always charging both batteries? I think I still like the idea of being able to send 100% of the charging juice to a single battery, when needed. But that's just my opinion. It sends juice to what ever battery needs it the most. Starting with the start battery. Once the starting battery is fully charged then device will parallel the two batteries so that both get charged.

How reliable are these devices? Manual battery switches are typically one of the most reliable things on a boat. Some modern electronics are more reliable than some mechanical devices. Which is why we see so many electronics being in use. I have read more about switch failures than about combiner failures for what it is worth.

Question... let's say one battery completely dies while on the hook. With a manual switch, I can select the good battery ONLY and have full battery power available to start the engine. But with the combiner, it sounds like it will select BOTH batteries since as soon as the engine is turning over, it's creating charging juice (which activates the combiner). I know I'm stretching a little here, but in this case the good battery will not only be trying to start the engine, but also be "charging" the bad battery. If the engine is one that sometimes takes a bit of cranking to start, then that could cause an issue? Of course, the solution, would be to manually disconnect the bad battery and get it out of the circuit. But hopefully that is realized before the good battery looses it's power.

Again, just my opinion, but it seems like it's an expensive venture (adding in whatever those two optional on/off things are) when a $45 manual switch does it all? But hey, that's why there are opinions and options!

The primary reason for an automatic device (the combiner) to be used is to take a weak link out of the chain. That weak link being the operator. Folks have been known to parallel two batteries using the switch so that both get charged when the motor is running. The operator forgets to unparallel the batteries when the motor is stopped. He leaves all of his boat stuff on. Both batteries go dead. He is now stuck. Can't start either motor. With the combiner the start battery always remains fully charged. If the start battery were to ever fail then he can switch to battery two to start the motor. Once the motor is up and running then both batteries will again be provided with whatever charge they need.

Now if I was 50 miles out at sea and my start battery failed I would never parallel the two batteries (switch on both) to start the motor. Thinking being that what ever caused the start battery to fail could take down battery two. I would simply switch to the house battery and start the motor. Only if either the start battery AND the house battery by themselves could not start the motor would I ever consider connecting both batteries together.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Again, just my opinion, but it seems like it's an expensive venture (adding in whatever those two optional on/off things are) when a $45 manual switch does it all? But hey, that's why there are opinions and options!

I don't have that option... One battery....

If any doubt, I have a load tester.

Should it fail on the water, I have long, (top of the line) jumper cables. (I always have my Yamaha gauges set to show me charging voltage while underway).. (No electric *****ing motors)..

[boscoe99]

As with most stuff in life, one size does not apply to all.

In the case of the OP's motor it really does not need a battery at all. It will run on its own power after being pulled started. I suspect that a boat with a 40 two stroke won't be going very far in the distance. Now take a single powered bigger boat being used 40/50 miles out in the briny blue, with lots of devices consuming loads of electrical current, and it is a different situation altogether.

Lots of different ways to get from point a to point b. At least over here, as opposed to THT, catfights don't break out when one wants to take surface streets and one wants to take the freeway.

[DennisG01]

Hmmm. Interesting device. I think I personally still like the idea of a physical switch, but I can see the reason some people like the Combiner. I've used them for so long, on so many boats, with such a great record -- I also work part time in the marine industry and we do a lot of battery switch installs - just have never ventured into the "new age" in this department, I suppose

Thanks for the explanations!

Scott... I would need really, REALLY long jumper cables! Even when I'm closer to shore, I don't see too many people to be able to wave down and help.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Scott... I would need really, REALLY long jumper cables! Even when I'm closer to shore, I don't see too many people to be able to wave down and help.

For me, down here the waterways like the interstate...I don't go out on weekends, it's crazy...

Furthest I go is 15 miles off shore to a reef in 45' of water. (Rare when I do go). It's the closest reef around (concrete from an old bridge-Edison Bridge Reef) and there's ALWAYS someone out there scuba diving or fishing.