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2003 Yamaha 150hp VMAX Oil warning help

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  • #16
    dude
    put the meter down.
    do a bit of reading on what voltage is, what it does.
    read what current is and what it does.
    from the blue wire at the pump to ground at the block you should read battery voltage,almost.
    when you toggle the ground switch it should drop to less than .5V.
    if it does not drop, fix the ground path.

    remember there are a few splices in the harness for + path and - path. voltage is a simple measure of electrical pressure.
    current makes it move.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Post
      ok


      if you do move the black meter lead to the blue wire at the remote tank and depress the emergency switch. do you show about 12V?
      voltage is a simple measure of electrical pressure.
      current(amps) make the thing work.
      Rodbolt in your next post after this you do state that if the volts do not drop you have a problem. Not being smarta** but if that had been stated in this post probably even I would have followed. Sometimes I think your knowledge outstrips your explanation and some of us dummies can't follow? Please don't take this response wrong.

      I apologize in advance for offense and hope you will still answer me if I have questions but please realize not all of us know what you know from your years of experience, it is really appreciated.
      Dennis
      Keep life simple, eat, sleep, fish, repeat!

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      • #18
        Remember the person trying to help you is miles away and cannot just tell you things, it needs to be done in steps (trouble shooting) how many steps are given at a time is entirely up to the "helper" and sometimes, one step at a time is plenty, sometimes, maybe ten steps would be better! I don't know how many times I have read instructions on a simple test to be completed and results revealed, but the poster continues to ignore it and jump all over the place pulling things to bits, perhaps in this instance, a couple of steps might have been better, but, no one knows how well you follow instructions, how much you know or anything else.
        Last edited by ausnoelm; 11-17-2017, 03:07 PM. Reason: Typo

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        • #19
          Appreciate everyones input, and the assistance will save my wallet. i am learning about troubleshooting this issue, so please bare with me. Ok, after running through the series of test, the toggle switch, when activated will turn on the pump on the second tank. I am not sure why it started working, but i connected and reconnected wires multiple times, so maybe that did the trick. (Note: had 12 V on all connections per DC V testing prior to the toggle switch starting to work) To see if the system somehow was miraculously fixed, i drained the main oil tank, the alarm sounded but the pump on the secondary tank did not come on. What the heck?

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          • #20
            There is only one pump to pump the oil to the
            tank on the engine, that will be on the tank in
            the boat.

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            • #21
              walleye1 thanks. I figured there is just one pump. just trying to give clarity on which tank I am referring during this troubleshoot. Any idea why it wont come on, even though the toggle switch works, direct connect makes it works, the main tank sensor float activates an alarm when oil is low......what else could it be?

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              • #22
                I believe your problem is in the flat wire running from
                the engine to the oil tank in the boat has a broken wire
                as in ground wire. Normally in the riggen tube or where
                the there the wire bends when trimed up.

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                • #23
                  If the sensor in the boat mounted tank is not telling the ECU/CDI that there is oil in the remote/boat mounted tank then the automatic transfer system won't function. This can happen for a number of reasons.

                  Do you have a Yamaha tachometer with lights or icons? If so, what is it telling you.

                  By the way, the same harness that provides power and a ground to the pump motor also tells the ECU if there is oil in the remote tank. If the connectors were fouled and not letting the ground get to the pump via the toggle switch then they might be fouled and not letting the ECU know that there is oil in the tank.

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                  • #24
                    ok, i have reworked the connections on the harness and found fouling in the gears on the oil pump motor. The toggle switch and the motor work great. What would be the best way to test the oil transfer system to ensure the remote tank will fill the main oil tank under normal conditions? (Meaning without using the toggle switch.)

                    Thanks

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                    • #25
                      if the manual transfer works then it is most likely a remote tank switch issue.

                      IF the manual wont work it is most likely a connector or a splice.

                      to easily test it place the red meter lead in the bullet connector for the pump ground at the remote tank.
                      turn the key on,should read 12v,toggle the manual switch,should stay at or near battery voltage.
                      if it does the next step is place the read meter lead on the ground wire for the pump and the black lead on the engine block at a good ground.
                      should read battery voltage.
                      toggle the switch. should read less than .5V.
                      any higher then the ground path is bad.

                      Imagine your checking a simple light circuit. current flows from the battery through the bulb and back to the battery.
                      to make the lamp turn off you have to break the wire.
                      now the current stops yet the voltage potential is still there.
                      if you measure voltage from point a to point b along a single wire there should be no voltage unless there is a break or a resistance between point a and b.

                      does that help?

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by MyGAL Christmas View Post
                        ok, i have reworked the connections on the harness and found fouling in the gears on the oil pump motor. The toggle switch and the motor work great. (Meaning without using the toggle switch.)What would be the best way to test the oil transfer system to ensure the remote tank will fill the main oil tank under normal conditions?

                        Thanks
                        make sure remote tank has plenty of clean oil,
                        drain the motor mounted tank (catching the oil in a clean container if it is clean and reusable),
                        turn the key to the on position >

                        see if the pump comes on and fills the motor mounted in 180 seconds or less.

                        you could also start the motor on muffs and partially drain the motor tank to see if the pump comes on and refills

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Post
                          if the manual transfer works then it is most likely a remote tank switch issue.

                          IF the manual wont work it is most likely a connector or a splice.

                          to easily test it place the red meter lead in the bullet connector for the pump ground at the remote tank.
                          turn the key on,should read 12v,toggle the manual switch,should stay at or near battery voltage.
                          if it does the next step is place the read meter lead on the ground wire for the pump and the black lead on the engine block at a good ground.
                          should read battery voltage.
                          toggle the switch. should read less than .5V.
                          any higher then the ground path is bad.

                          Imagine your checking a simple light circuit. current flows from the battery through the bulb and back to the battery.
                          to make the lamp turn off you have to break the wire.
                          now the current stops yet the voltage potential is still there.
                          if you measure voltage from point a to point b along a single wire there should be no voltage unless there is a break or a resistance between point a and b.

                          does that help?

                          Yes, this is exactly what it is doing now. The readings follow the above. Ground path is now good. Ok if i drain the main oil tank, the alarm goes off; but i do not hear the pump come on? what does that mean?

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                          • #28
                            are you showing 12v from brown at the pump ground when the alarm is on?
                            do you show less than .5V V from pump blue wire to ground when the alarm is on?

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                            • #29
                              Rodbolt17 - i left for Turkey day back at it. OK I tested under alarm the voltage for brown wire at the secondary oil tank. it read 12V. did the same as instructed for the blue. It did not read below .5v. (No pump came on.) There wasnt a drop in the reading. The only time the reading will drop to .5v is when i have the toggle switch up and it activates the pump.

                              are we getting close?

                              thanks for your help and I hope your Thanksgiving went well.

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                              • #30
                                then either SW2 is bad,the harness between SW2 and the ECU or the ECUI OR the wiring between the ECU and SWB and back to the block.
                                have you checked the switch in the remote tank(SWB).
                                it is a randomly simple system that uses 4 switchs.
                                remember the ECU does not know if a switch is open or the splice/connection failed.

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