F20 startup issue +video

[panasonic]

the reason for using soft copper wire is to keep from distorting the brass jet orifices.
they are not just holes, so important not to damage the shape

I normally use soft copper wire strands for carbs that are not to badly plugged up... But when plugged up real good I use the acupuncture needles or a high E string off a guitar which is .009"

Sometimes the copper just won't cut it and just bends up. Have not damaged any jets so far and have cleaned many a carb in the last 35 years or so.

That's my story and I am sticking to it..

[pstephens46]

For the carb, that screw should NOT be loose (as posted earlier). There is a clip, part #14, that may be installed in correctly:

2006 and Later F20MLH Yamaha Outboard CARBURETOR Diagram and Parts

Loosening that screw is simply dropping the float level. It is NOT meant as an adjustment. There should be a small metal tang On the float by the pin) that you can adjust (bend slightly to spec's) to adjust the float height (while the carb is upside down). I've had carbs with a piece of crap in-between the seat and the needle causing havoc too...

The fuel pump is AFTER the filter assembly and before the carb. I've never seen a return line with a carb, I suspect there's either simply low pressure (say 15 PSI) or a regulator (not likely). The carb needle ALONE should be enough to close off incoming fuel once the bowl is full..

That engine is NOT FIXED and will eventually get you stranded once that screw vibrates out and the engine floods...

As for the fuel pump Pat, looking at the parts diagram, I don't think that pump is MECHANICALLY driven like the F150, but vacuum (IE, engine must be running to pump). I might be missing something in the pic's but most of the little engines use vacuum(I could very well be wrong).

But he has fuel NOW, the carb still isn't right... Have to get the basic's down first before moving to other issues..
.

I was looking at the diagram from one of your earlier posts. Looks like a plunger type pump. As in plunger rides on a cam lobe. But I see no return lines or relief valves either. So I would assume the carb needle shuts down flow completely. And that would affect the filling of fuel bowl.

So back to the carb.....

[panasonic]

For the carb, that screw should NOT be loose (as posted earlier). There is a clip, part #14, that may be installed in correctly:

2006 and Later F20MLH Yamaha Outboard CARBURETOR Diagram and Parts

Loosening that screw is simply dropping the float level. It is NOT meant as an adjustment. There should be a small metal tang On the float by the pin) that you can adjust (bend slightly to spec's) to adjust the float height (while the carb is upside down).

The fuel pump is AFTER the filter assembly and before the carb. I've never seen a return line with a carb, I suspect there's either simply low pressure (say 15 PSI) or a regulator (not likely). The carb needle ALONE should be enough to close off incoming fuel once the bowl is full..

That engine is NOT FIXED and will eventually get you stranded once that screw vibrates out and the engine floods...


.

I agree Scott that screw needs to be tight and will back out if not. I do not think the float on this engine has a metal tang on it for adjusting the float height, plastic float with no adjustment, it is what it is. Did a F15 awhile ago and it had same setup...no adjustment tang.

That clip you speak of is the little wire outfit that clips on the needle and connects the float and needle together...I am saying this for the posters benefit not yours Scott as I know you are aware of that.

So why when he tightens the screw down all the way the float lifts up? Either the float pin is not sitting down in the notch properly or it is bent slightly is my guess. I believe in his last post about the float/needle he said when he tighten the screw down the float would not move freely....Not sure.

OP you need to get to the bottom of this float pin screw problem. Maybe post a picture or video of the float so we can see what is going on...

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I agree Scott that screw needs to be tight and will back out if not. I do not think the float on this engine has a metal tang on it for adjusting the float height, plastic float with no adjustment, it is what it is. Did a F15 awhile ago and it had same setup...no adjustment tang.

That clip you speak of is the little wire outfit that clips on the needle and connects the float and needle together...I am saying this for the posters benefit not yours Scott as I know you are aware of that.

So why when he tightens the screw down all the way the float lifts up? Either the float pin is not sitting down in the notch properly or it is bent slightly is my guess. I believe in his last post about the float/needle he said when he tighten the screw down the float would not move freely....Not sure.

OP you need to get to the bottom of this float pin screw problem. Maybe post a picture or video of the float so we can see what is going on...

Does the "arms" to the float have any adjustability to them?

I can see small cheap engines W/O adjustments, but a 20 HP engine,
I would think, would have something??

I mentioned the clip just in case it wasn't installed correctly, holding the float
WAY OPEN...

Unless the carb needle seat, somehow loosened up, partially came out, that would explain a bunch(however IME, very, very rare)

[merc200dalarna]

For the carb, that screw should NOT be loose (as posted earlier). There is a clip, part #14, that may be installed in correctly:

2006 and Later F20MLH Yamaha Outboard CARBURETOR Diagram and Parts

Loosening that screw is simply dropping the float level. It is NOT meant as an adjustment. There should be a small metal tang On the float by the pin) that you can adjust (bend slightly to spec's) to adjust the float height (while the carb is upside down). I've had carbs with a piece of crap in-between the seat and the needle causing havoc too...

The fuel pump is AFTER the filter assembly and before the carb. I've never seen a return line with a carb, I suspect there's either simply low pressure (say 15 PSI) or a regulator (not likely). The carb needle ALONE should be enough to close off incoming fuel once the bowl is full..

That engine is NOT FIXED and will eventually get you stranded once that screw vibrates out and the engine floods...

As for the fuel pump Pat, looking at the parts diagram, I don't think that pump is MECHANICALLY driven like the F150, but vacuum (IE, engine must be running to pump). I might be missing something in the pic's but most of the little engines use vacuum(I could very well be wrong).

But he has fuel NOW, the carb still isn't right... Have to get the basic's down first before moving to other issues..
.

OK, when I installed that little clip that joins the float with the needle, I was infact unsure which way was front/back. But i can't see how that would affect height.. And I learned back in the other thread that the screw should be tightened, but right now I can't. And yes, the float travel got very restricted too when I tightened the screw, but I then learned it didn't need much travel. But now in combination with the float height, I can't do both...
I agree that the problem isn't fully fixed.

[merc200dalarna]

Does the "arms" to the float have any adjustability to them?

I can see small cheap engines W/O adjustments, but a 20 HP engine,
I would think, would have something??

I mentioned the clip just in case it wasn't installed correctly, holding the float
WAY OPEN...

Unless the carb needle seat, somehow loosened up, partially came out, that would explain a bunch(however IME, very, very rare)

There is no adjustment, unless bending that little clip/spring that joins needle and float (as someone mentioned) I could measure how far down the needle seat is.... But I have the carb reinstalled right now.

[merc200dalarna]

I agree Scott that screw needs to be tight and will back out if not. I do not think the float on this engine has a metal tang on it for adjusting the float height, plastic float with no adjustment, it is what it is. Did a F15 awhile ago and it had same setup...no adjustment tang.

That clip you speak of is the little wire outfit that clips on the needle and connects the float and needle together...I am saying this for the posters benefit not yours Scott as I know you are aware of that.

So why when he tightens the screw down all the way the float lifts up? Either the float pin is not sitting down in the notch properly or it is bent slightly is my guess. I believe in his last post about the float/needle he said when he tighten the screw down the float would not move freely....Not sure.

OP you need to get to the bottom of this float pin screw problem. Maybe post a picture or video of the float so we can see what is going on...

So unless I go fish tomorrow, I will make a video of this "one of a kind" float for you all to see. My guess is I go for the fishing with my semi-fixed carb. If there is any daylight by the time I get back I will remove it. Starting to get pretty good at removing it. ; )

[panasonic]

OK, when I installed that little clip that joins the float with the needle, I was infact unsure which way was front/back. But i can't see how that would affect height.. And I learned back in the other thread that the screw should be tightened, but right now I can't. And yes, the float travel got very restricted too when I tightened the screw, but I then learned it didn't need much travel. But now in combination with the float height, I can't do both...
I agree that the problem isn't fully fixed.

Please post a picture or a video of the carb with the bowl taken off so we can see the float/needle. I am reasonably sure this is all the trouble you are having with this engine....wont start, shutting off, losing RPM at WOT, unresponsive throttle...ect If that float/needle is not working just right your problems will continue.

Nice boat by the way.

[merc200dalarna]

Sorry for the many posts, but multiquotes won't work for me.

[panasonic]

Does the "arms" to the float have any adjustability to them?

I can see small cheap engines W/O adjustments, but a 20 HP engine,
I would think, would have something??

I mentioned the clip just in case it wasn't installed correctly, holding the float
WAY OPEN...

Unless the carb needle seat, somehow loosened up, partially came out, that would explain a bunch(however IME, very, very rare)

Nope no adjustment on that one. Nor is my 20 two stroke floats adjustable.

Put a good many of those in and checked the float height...right on the money.

[panasonic]

Sorry for the many posts, but multiquotes won't work for me.

Do you have the service manual for this engine??? If not here is the link to it.

https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/se...a-shop-manuals

[merc200dalarna]

Do you have the service manual for this engine??? If not here is the link to it.

https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/se...a-shop-manuals

Yes, I got it of that link that probably were posted by you I guess. And I read about the float, and the clean the carb, and the testing the primer start.

[panasonic]

For the carb, that screw should NOT be loose (as posted earlier). There is a clip, part #14, that may be installed in correctly:

2006 and Later F20MLH Yamaha Outboard CARBURETOR Diagram and Parts

Loosening that screw is simply dropping the float level. It is NOT meant as an adjustment. There should be a small metal tang On the float by the pin) that you can adjust (bend slightly to spec's) to adjust the float height (while the carb is upside down). I've had carbs with a piece of crap in-between the seat and the needle causing havoc too...

The fuel pump is AFTER the filter assembly and before the carb. I've never seen a return line with a carb, I suspect there's either simply low pressure (say 15 PSI) or a regulator (not likely). The carb needle ALONE should be enough to close off incoming fuel once the bowl is full..

That engine is NOT FIXED and will eventually get you stranded once that screw vibrates out and the engine floods...

As for the fuel pump Pat, looking at the parts diagram, I don't think that pump is MECHANICALLY driven like the F150, but vacuum (IE, engine must be running to pump). I might be missing something in the pic's but most of the little engines use vacuum(I could very well be wrong).
But he has fuel NOW, the carb still isn't right... Have to get the basic's down first before moving to other issues..
.

Mechanical fuel pump, 7 PSI.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

My moneys on that clip then ... Nothing else it could be..

For the OP, the needle moves VERY, VERY LITTLE.. (I'm guessing maybe .030")..

That clip is there to prevent the needle from sticking UP inside the carb body. So it should be pulling the needle down wards (carb in normal position).

If that spring/retainer is IN-BETWEEN the needle and carb, that IS your problem..

Agreed too, a pic of how it's installed should tell the story...

.

[merc200dalarna]

My moneys on that clip then ... Nothing else it could be..

For the OP, the needle moves VERY, VERY LITTLE.. (I'm guessing maybe .030")..

That clip is there to prevent the needle from sticking UP inside the carb body. So it should be pulling the needle down wards (carb in normal position).

If that spring/retainer is IN-BETWEEN the needle and carb, that IS your problem..

Agreed too, a pic of how it's installed should tell the story...

.

OK! Well I looked at it and figured I couldn't go so wrong when installing it, but I probably have. It functions, but probably not as intended. I will check and video it, unsure when though.