Tilt cylinder cap

[cj7oleander]

I have a 1999 130TLRX Yamaha Outboard. Leaking tilt (center) cylinder. I got it out but the top aluminum threaded cap is corroded between the dust seal and the interior o-ring. Not to mention the buggered up holes trying to remove it. Looking at the Yamaha Power Trim Tilt Assembly 1 in the parts diagram, does not list that part as available. Am I safe to clean it up as much as possible and re-assemble it?

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Ya...201/parts.html

[cj7oleander]

Thanks, but I am looking for the TILT cylinder cap.

[BQUICK]

TILT PISTON SUB ASSY
64E-43810-00-00

Looks like part of rod assembly

[cj7oleander]

TILT PISTON SUB ASSY
64E-43810-00-00

Looks like part of rod assembly

Yep. $342. Guess I will clean up the old one as best I can and reuse it. Thanks for the reply. Jut wondering why they sell the trim cap separately and not the tilt cap.

[boscoe99]

They do sell just the cap.

64E-43811-01-00 YAMAHA SCREW, CYLINDER END

[walleye1]

I don't believe the cap will cum with the seal,
wiper or oring.

[BQUICK]

They do sell just the cap.

64E-43811-01-00 YAMAHA SCREW, CYLINDER END

But this says 2006 and later he has a 99

[boscoe99]

But this says 2006 and later he has a 99

Yes, it does.

[cj7oleander]

Thanks guys, but I just put the old one back in. I did not remove the free piston from the cylinder. But I still need your help.

Now with the reservoir full, I am fully air locked, can't even get the trim cylinder rods to move. At first they went out and the tilt cylinder rod went about 25% out and stopped. Now messing around trying to bleed it I lost all action. With bleed valve open I was able to lift motor to that 25% tilt position, but then it stopped. I was by myself so I used the winch on my Jeep to lift it (very carefully I might add), still stops at the 25% position with the bleed valve open. Now it is fully down and the motor just hums with button in the up or down position. Any ideas? Sure could use some advise.

After I got it fully assembled, I realized I don't remember seeing the teflon back up ring when I removed the o-ring in the piston. It didn't come out, so it may still be there as I wasn't looking for it. Is that a problem? I do have a new one.

A definite lack of YouTube videos on the tilt cylinder repair, plenty on the trim cylinders. To break the nut loose on the piston, I wrapped the rod with a towel and stuck the other end in my receiver hitch and inserted the hitch pin to keep it from rotating. Field vise. Also was lucky in that the lower shock mount pin was missing a circlip and had worked its way out about 3/4".

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I saved this video as it seemed pretty useful:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nfPyXNQQOf4

15 minutes into the video is when he starts filling and bleeding

BTW, if your not sure, you have that teflon ring back in, NOW is the
time to check it.. You don't want a "do over"...

[cj7oleander]

That is a good video, watched about 4 times before starting the project. Well it is all together and I know I didn't remove the teflon back up ring, so either it wasn't there to start with or it was simply stuck to the side of the groove and I never saw it.

BTW, by removing both the top and bottom hinge pins, I was able to remove and replace the cylinder rod without removing the whole unit from the boat.

Plan today is to winch the motor as high as it will go so I can get to the fill plug then put a foot long piece of 5/8" vinyl hose over the fill plug to the reservoir so it won't spit out every time I try to burp air out and I can keep a few inches of fluid in it while I run the pump.

Wishing my replacement cowling tilt switch came today and not next Tuesday. Tired of climbing in and out.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The mechanical/manual arm should be sufficient for your bleeding purposes once it's tilted...

Good luck...

[cj7oleander]

Got it. Pump was totally air locked. Winched the motor as high as it would go without undue strain, attached my 5/8" clear vinyl tube to the filler (old 130 hp has plastic reservoir with a cap not a plug) and half filled it with red tranny fluid so I could monitor if it was taking fluid or expelling air. With the bypass open or closed I was getting no movement of the motor or fluid. But I kept at it finally it took a little fluid, but no change in the pump sound. I checked the winch cable and noticed some slack. Tightened it and got another 2 inches up. Kept this up three more times and all of a sudden the pump caught and I knew I was home free. Then it was just a matter of continuing to add fluid and running the pump. Removed the winch cable and let it down on the bypass valve to expel any residual air, topped it off on full tilt and I was done. Posting this in a few places hoping to help as many as possible.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Congrates!!!

Any "new" you tube video's from you??

.

[cj7oleander]

Congrates!!!

Any "new" you tube video's from you??

.

Just a couple of wood shop and church videos. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ModG...ature=youtu.be

Search Ole Anderson and all you will get the wrestler. haha