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Help! Any tips on powerhead removal? 86 220

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  • Help! Any tips on powerhead removal? 86 220

    Of course 3 of the long bolts snapped at the head....so, the long shank is seized.

    No chance it will pull or pry off now right?
    Do I have to drilled the whole long shank out or should I cut thru housing with a cutoff wheel?

    Or is it all over.....?

  • #2
    most will drill in through the side and cut it off that way.
    holes are easier to patch up than saw cuts that destroy the mid section

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    • #3
      What is a long shank?

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      • #4
        Originally posted by BQUICK View Post
        Of course 3 of the long bolts snapped at the head....so, the long shank is seized.

        No chance it will pull or pry off now right?
        Do I have to drilled the whole long shank out or should I cut thru housing with a cutoff wheel?
        ?
        I gather the "long shank" is a long engine to mid section bolt??

        If so, the threads into the block is probably what's seized. If just the head of the bolt broke off, you should be able to finagle the two to separate.

        Once apart, you have a nice long broken bolt you can work with to loosen whether it be with heat, PB blaster, etc...
        Scott
        1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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        • #5
          Got it off....sliced the apron in half to get to area to sawsall the area below the block to release the bolts. Had to do same for the small bolts up front then it popped free while hanging on hoist.

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          • #6
            I use a 3/8ths bullit point bit, leaves a smaller hole.
            the threads don't lock up as bad as the bolt shaft. the hole is tapered and they wont drive down, don't even try it.
            chlorox bleach does pretty good at eating the corrosion.

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