250 HP 4 stroke 2007 need thread size for Oil drain Bolt

[boscoe99]

That's some Macgyver tactics.......

Can you drill/fill teeth too?

I never used anti seize stuff. Never read that I had too. Maybe I should. Maybe I shouldn't. Townsend posted something showing NGK recommending nothing as I recall.

Sometimes I follow directions. Sometimes I don't. Roscoe gets angry if we don't follow directions.

Roscoe believes that after all else fails, follow the instructions.

All too late in life some get a bit of smart. Skool of hard knocks. If Roscoe had followed instructions (and paid attention) during his long and not so prosperous life, the fool would have fared a bit better. His is a tale of woe. Full of sound and fury. Signifying nothing. He strutted and fretted his allotted hour upon the stage. His curtain is going down. May others learn from Roscoe's mistakes.

Of course if Roscoe had it all to do all over, Roscoe would simply find a way of different way of making the same mistakes.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

That's some Macgyver tactics.......

Can you drill/fill teeth too?

I never used anti seize stuff. Never read that I had too. Maybe I should. Maybe I shouldn't. Townsend posted something showing NGK recommending nothing as I recall.

Sometimes I follow directions. Sometimes I don't. Roscoe gets angry if we don't follow directions.

What I posted WAS from Champion or NGKs official (I forgot which one) web site. That the plug threads didn't require it.. Clean threads is also critical when tightening down to a specific tightness...

IMO, anti seize, used very sparingly, (and away from the electrode/ground) won't hurt anything, BUT as noted, will throw off torque #'s, (so a little lighter, good and snug)...

In Mako's car, the spark plug being loose and the threads getting pounded and pounded (till they failed) as the engine ran sounds very likely..

I've had some plugs that were real tight coming out. In those cases, (and with bolts in general doing the same), STOP, re-tighten, then loosen. Keep repeating and most times you can get it out without damage to the block head..

[marchmadness]

So the consensus is that you don't drain the oil by the oil plug rather suck the oil out. Is it because you don't want to strip the threads?

[pstephens46]

So the consensus is that you don't drain the oil by the oil plug rather suck the oil out. Is it because you don't want to strip the threads?

Might be the consensus if we all had the proper vacuum tool. The ones I have used so far stink. Pull the plug and the oil drains in about 2 minutes. Vacuum takes awhile. Is there something decent for less than a 100 bucks that works?
300-400 would buy a nice electrical pump deal I'm sure.

No offense to Roscoe. Always fun to get him typing. I enjoy reading his responses. Others too. They say a key symptom of a forum internet ***** is baiting. So I am guilty in this case. Sometimes I can add something decent here and there.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

So the consensus is that you don't drain the oil by the oil plug rather suck the oil out. Is it because you don't want to strip the threads?

Yes, I'd do the same if working on someone elses engine as you don't know who dinked with that plug last...

I have both the pump and then some.. I'm not worried about the threads..

A cheap oil pump (attaches to a drill motor) will suck the oil (5.5 quarts out of my F150) in less than a minute. Sucking does leave a very small amount of old oil in the pan (in my case, maybe 1/2 cup).

I prefer the fitting (plastic) and hose that screws into the oil pan with the engine tilted up. Oil does NOT come out tilted that high. Once lowered, the oil drains out the hose into your container. IMO, just a little easier, not as much oil slop/mess...


.

[rodbolt17]

we use a vacuum extractor.
was made under a brand called sluurper.
we typically extract about 750 or so gallons each year from outboards and sterndrives.
the ONLY time I remove a drain plug is when absolutely mandatory for disassembly of the pan.
don't touch it and it don't strip.
I can vacuum extract way faster than you can drain it and with way less mess.

[boscoe99]

So the consensus is that you don't drain the oil by the oil plug rather suck the oil out. Is it because you don't want to strip the threads?

It also a time and aggravation issue. And possibly a lot cleaner.

In the inline models the drain plug is easy to get to. In the V6 models you have to remove parts to gain access to the drain plug. Can be a bit fiddly removing some of those parts. Which might go scurrying across the shop floor, finding and falling into a hidey hole. In less time than an apron can be removed the oil can be sucked out via the dipstick.

Biggest benefit to a dealer mechanic is that a drain plug will never be stripped. And he can never be accused of contributing to the user stripping his own drain plug when the owner does it following the dealer having done it.

[boscoe99]

No offense to Roscoe. Always fun to get him typing. I enjoy reading his responses. Others too. They say a key symptom of a forum internet ***** is baiting. So I am guilty in this case. Sometimes I can add something decent here and there.

Rumor has it that you are a Master Baiter.

[pstephens46]

Rumor has it that you are a Master Baiter.

You know how things get when you been married a few years. Entertain oneself.....

[pstephens46]

Yes, I'd do the same if working on someone elses engine as you don't know who dinked with that plug last...

I have both the pump and then some.. I'm not worried about the threads..

A cheap oil pump (attaches to a drill motor) will suck the oil (5.5 quarts out of my F150) in less than a minute. Sucking does leave a very small amount of old oil in the pan (in my case, maybe 1/2 cup).

I prefer the fitting (plastic) and hose that screws into the oil pan with the engine tilted up. Oil does NOT come out tilted that high. Once lowered, the oil drains out the hose into your container. IMO, just a little easier, not as much oil slop/mess...


.

I think I may try the Shurflo drill powered pump. Pretty cheap, no shipping on Amazon. Hopefully it will work and I can use on the generator and mowers too.

[Capt.Terry]

So the consensus is that you don't drain the oil by the oil plug rather suck the oil out. Is it because you don't want to strip the threads?

If I had known I was going to screw this up I would have sucked it out. But never gave it a thought to even look here or anywhere to contemplate a problem or to see this could be a problem, an oil plug no less! one that should work for eternity on letting oil out, is it not what it is supposed to be designed for. Any way for future people with this question at hand the tools cost as much as the oil sucker, its going to be about $100.00 ball park plus the time and hope you do it correctly. Then I have to get the oil sucker anyway, so it becomes a no brainer. $ 100 now or $200 with the work, and a helicoil installed. It will take me two weeks to do this waiting on the tool to come. So now the boat is also laid up..

[ausnoelm]

Kind of interesting how sump plugs on cars last for the life of the car, unless some boofhead over tightens it of course, and they are under the car, exposed to crap every day, but when oil change time comes around, out it comes, all neat and easy!

[fairdeal]

Kind of interesting how sump plugs on cars last for the life of the car, unless some boofhead over tightens it of course, and they are under the car, exposed to crap every day, but when oil change time comes around, out it comes, all neat and easy!

apples and oranges.
An auto engine oil pan is sheet steel, with a mild steel nut welded to it for the drain, the plug is mild steel.
Even on the rare all aluminum engine, the plug is still mild steel.
"exposed to crap" - but very rarely immersed in salt water.

The outboard is aluminum alloy with a stainless plug - which may spend extended periods immersed in salt water.

[oldmako69]

I bought a manual suction pump, the kind attached to a can. It pretty much doesn't suck. It takes forever and I am going to toss it in the recycle bin.

Here's an inexpensive option. I've already got a spare motorcycle batt that I can schlep over to the yacht-t-t-t-t-t when it's time to change the oil(s).



https://www.amazon.com/Extractor-Sca...ion+pump&psc=1

Here's another....




https://www.amazon.com/KINGSO-Extrac...xtraction+pump

[fairdeal]

Here's an inexpensive option. I've already got a spare motorcycle batt that I can schlep over to the yacht-t-t-t-t-t when it's time to change the oil(s).

why wouldn't you use the engine battery?
you'll have the cowling off anyway
and the battery lugs will be right there