T60 water pump housing

[b.quick8]

Bought this motor used last year and I'm doing the first impeller change-out. Since I have the wp rebuild kit ,and from the look of things(corrosion,salt,rust,etc.) I want to pull the pump and do the gasket and o-ring underneath. Any tricks to loosening that puppy to get it off? Soaked the perimeter at gasket with pb blaster then tapped with a wood block all the way around. It's a little loose but I don't want to pry up too forcefully and
snap something. Thanks for all of the expert advice !

[pstephens46]

What year/exact model? Trying to look at diagram....

[walleye1]

Pry it up with two screw drivers, one on each side.

[b.quick8]

It's a 2010 t60tlr

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If you look at the Parts Diagram (up above in RED, "Purchase Yamaha Parts")
put in your info you can bring up and look at the specific area your working on.

In your case: 2006 and Later T60TLR Yamaha Outboard LOWER CASING DRIVE 1 Diagram and Parts

Zoom in on the part and you can get a good idea what's there.

Part #27 is what your currently looking at, you can see it's got a slight recess, o-ring. Of course clean
the drive shaft spotless (as in shiny with emery cloth or ) and with all the corrosion, be prepared to wrestle with that corrosion..

Seals (parts #29), is what I referred to in the other thread.


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[99yam40]

main thing is to pry evenly

looks like you got the dampener out and it cleaned up well.
I would recommend cleaning up a lot of that gunk before pulling that water pump base, or shoving a rag down into the hole once pulled while cleaning to keep the crud out of there

[pstephens46]

What kind of boat? Sailboat? Pontoon?

Looks like the engine has been left down in water for a long time.

I can't tell if #27 has dowel pins on the bottom. It would be tempting to try to rotate it slightly with a punch. To break the corrosion "seal" loose and give you more surface to pry against. Don't pry directly again l/u housing. It will chip and crack. Use wood or some kind of buffer.

[panasonic]

What kind of boat? Sailboat? Pontoon?

Looks like the engine has been left down in water for a long time.

I can't tell if #27 has dowel pins on the bottom. It would be tempting to try to rotate it slightly with a punch. To break the corrosion "seal" loose and give you more surface to pry against. Don't pry directly again l/u housing. It will chip and crack. Use wood or some kind of buffer.

My thoughts exactly..seems like that LU has sat in salt water for very long periods time to be that corroded.Hopefully you will get it all cleaned up and back in service without to much trouble.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Looks like a prime candidate for a RYDLYME treatment..

[b.quick8]

yup,it had previously been on a sailboat. Doesn't appear to me that the previous owner had ever done a full wp service. Just want to make sure everything is top shape in there. Don't need an overheat alarm 20 miles out in the deep blue !

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Once your back together, might be worth a read:

http://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/f...g-th19434.html

http://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/f...m-th23666.html

Post #21 specifically: http://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/f...h27868-p2.html