Thanks guys for the info.
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snowflakes.
I aint scared to drill, tap nor helicoil.
at work they call me scarecrow because I am a tad on the thin side.
I reply: I am a special scarecrow cause I aint afraid of fire.
remove the plug. worst that is gonna happen is the threads come out with it.
that is what heli-coils are for.
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Originally posted by fairdeal View PostI have no idea what was used in the 2001 V150TLRZ -
but on my F225TXRD those plugs are stainless steel - not my favorite metal to tap...
#1 Using crappy taps on expensive parts...good taps cost good money. Don't buy your taps at Home Depot.
#2 Buy your taps in sets of three, starter, plug and bottoming.
#3 Starting the tap crooked, sure way to break a tap off. (starter tap and square if possible)
#4 Too rigid on the tap drill size... 75% thread for soft material's like Aluminum and 50% thread on hard steel and stainless. Unless it is very critical you can even go lower % thread (slightly larger tap drill) and get a good strong thread.
Get a good tap drill chart off the net with different % thread sizing.
#5 No tapping fluid or wrong tapping fluid...it can make all the difference. WD-40 works as good as any... in aluminum.
#6 Keep the hole and tap clean...get rid of the swarf.
Sorry Fairdeal for hijacking your post...broken taps are a pet peeve of mine.
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Originally posted by 99yam40 View Postdrill, tap and helicoil
RB ain't scared cause he ain't buying the repair stuff. Fix is simple, but the heli-coil tap isn't cheap
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I might go for the JB Weld myself;
that adapter plug is only going back in once and should never have to come out again.
But seems a generic Helicoil kit is available for as little as $37
Thread Repair Kit M14 x 1.5 x 1.5D Stainless Steel Insert & Tap & Drill bit | eBay
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