f150 tilt trim

[mouse action]

I got a f150 ,the trim tilt just stopped working,we replaced the relay/solenoid and now just have a clicking sound from both switches,when jumped out the motor works fine up and down,any advice as I'm going mad.

[fairdeal]

if the motor runs fine, it is fine

and the relay is brand new

the "click" that you hear "from both switches" -

isn't the sound coming from the relay?

the only possibility remaining is a bad wiring connection preventing the relay from applying power or ground to the motor

where did you jump out the motor from ?

btw - "the relay" is actually two completely separate relays inside a single housing.
If the trim suddenly stops working entirely - neither up nor down -
the chance of the cause being sudden simultaneous failure of both halves of the relay are - well, extremely low.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Plus 1 ^^. You have a bad connection somewhere.

To test, put 12 volts to the relay (under the black plastic cover-port side), where the HEAVY wires are GOING INTO the relay, then try.

[JerEazy1]

and a +2

Since you installed new, make sure that all of the wires are connected to the correct location - test - and clean/scrub away and corrosion that may be on the connections or connectors.

[mouse action]

Clicking is coming from the relay/solenoid.there is power at the rely and at each terminal when switches are activated,I jumped the wires direct from tt motor and it opertes perfectly..all fuses are good

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Clicking is coming from the relay/solenoid.there is power at the rely and at each terminal when switches are activated,I jumped the wires direct from tt motor and it opertes perfectly..all fuses are good

Unhook the wires from the engine to the "IN" terminals. Hook up a known GOOD BATTERY to the relay, then try...

You may have 12.8 volts to the relay but if the battery is toast (or bad connection) the voltage WILL DROP, you'll just get a clicking and NOT enough amperage to run the T&T.

If you have a volt meter, you check how many volts you have coming out of the relay WHEN LOADED (POOR MAN'S LOAD TEST)

[rodbolt17]

is it to simple to actually test?

you simply place a digital meter on the motor terminals.
hit up.
hit down.
should see 11v or so the -11v or so.

[mouse action]

I'm at a loss,same results with batterys boosted,and with battery hooked up direct to rely ????????click click click.

[fairdeal]

sounds like a hair-puller.
Odd, because "theoretically" its simple

certainly with a new relay - what electricity goes in, comes out

IIRC both up and down are "parked" on ground -
when one coil is activated, it switches to power and the other stays on ground

[99yam40]

if you read good voltage going thru the relay, then check the ground connection

when you say the motor runs OK when jumped, is it just spinning, or does it jump up engaging the flywheel and turning the motor?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

You are talking about relay #9, correct? :


2006 and Later F150TXR Yamaha Outboard ELECTRICAL 2 Diagram and Parts

[mouse action]

Yup,that's the relay.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

As noted several times, put a volt meter on the terminals and see what the volts are coming out of the relay to the T&T. Yours will probably be low to nil(broke).

Then check voltage to the lines going into the relay. That should be approx 12.8 and will drop a little when the buttons are activated.(if working correctly).

[mouse action]

Here's where I am today,new relay,but it shows power at both green and blue terms at the same time when the switches are activated.I did check another F150 and it only shows power at the appropriate terminal when switched,so I am of the belief that I got a bad (new)relay.so I ordered another relay and am hoping for the best.does any of this make sense.

[fairdeal]

purchased a "new" relay and it is "bad" ?

IMO - totally implausible.

I wonder if you have botched the wire connections -

I would not dare to remove them without first taking a few digital photos....