Lower Unit bolts

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Never heard of them backing out either - and there's obviously plenty of bolts holding it on. But I don't want to be the first guy either haha

speaking of which - and not to hijack or change the subject - what is the torque spec on the lower unit bolts?

34.7 lb ft on the main bolts, rear "fin" anode 31 lb ft.


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[Kirk Gibson]

Water line

Well the water pump is below the water line and I did read the post where RB says he doesn't use it on the wp bolts. I also think he said he uses a little grease on the LU bolts. If I were not changing these pumps every 2 or 3 years maybe I would use loctite. But I will now use a little grease. Maybe RB will tell us if he has ever seen a LU bolt with only grease back out. I find that unlikely.
Thanks for the input.

[pstephens46]

34.7 lb ft on the main bolts, rear "fin" anode 31 lb ft.


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I have snapped a trim tab anode trying to get to 31 lb ft. These newer alloys can probably take it. It was an old true zinc version. Which are getting harder to find. Like everything good, apparently they are bad for the environment too....

[JerEazy1]

Well the water pump is below the water line and I did read the post where RB says he doesn't use it on the wp bolts. I also think he said he uses a little grease on the LU bolts. If I were not changing these pumps every 2 or 3 years maybe I would use loctite. But I will now use a little grease. Maybe RB will tell us if he has ever seen a LU bolt with only grease back out. I find that unlikely.
Thanks for the input.

Agree with you on that one. Guess it's just a preference.

Grease in my mind is to lubricate, not seal. Though it accomplishes both.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I have snapped a trim tab anode trying to get to 31 lb ft. These newer alloys can probably take it. It was an old true zinc version. Which are getting harder to find. Like everything good, apparently they are bad for the environment too....

You have to remember, Yamaha calls for loctite on these bolts.

*IF YOU USE GREASE/OIL, ANY LUBRICANT, that bolt is tighter with the lubricant than "dry" with the Loctite.

IE: http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/to...ts-d_1693.html

They (forgot who-one of the car shows) make a thread lubricant that allows accurate torquing several times with the same fastener. Within a percent or two.

[Kirk Gibson]

Thread Compound

Yes, next time on the tab I will go that way. I found the tube of thread sealing compound I used last time. It is made by permatex, white, smells sweet.
Port wp all back just fine. Now I am having a difficult time stabbing it back.
But I have seen this before, one year (like the last time) it practically jumps back in itself, next time it wants to be a PITA. It stops at about an inch to go. I suspect it is the shift shaft not going in that is stopping it. The drive shaft would already be in the upper splines if it stops with only an inch to go I think.
At the stop point I cant see the shift shaft connection because of the spacer.
Anybody have any special tricks? I have tried the strap thing, turned the drive shaft, wiggled it etc. I may go and get a couple long guide bolts to put in temp to help align it while going up but I would think that if the upper splines were in that the rest should go at some point. Back at it after the break.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Just another body to help manipulate.

Did you put a lil bit of grease on the water intake tube, rubber bushing (and it's fully seated?).

An inch away sounds like the shifter splines.

[Kirk Gibson]

LU

Yes I greased those, I think it is the splines too. Will just have to keep trying, it will probably pop back in one time. If my old arms don't give out...lol
Thanks again.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I'm 58 and I had my neighbor help me in both directions...

Stabbing back in, it seemed easier with the engine pretty much up and down, (normal running position). You can place some 2x4's under the skeg (for your relief). Jiggle and raise gently till it drops in...

Also, if you have the correct thread, long metric bolt (preferably 2), cut the head off and screw into the rear mid section. This will help you guide the LU upwards.

[pstephens46]

Yes I greased those, I think it is the splines too. Will just have to keep trying, it will probably pop back in one time. If my old arms don't give out...lol
Thanks again.

You can help that shifter "receiver" align by pressing from the outside. Look at the outside of the mid-section and you can see the "receiving portion" where lower unit shift shaft mates to the next piece. You can move it with a screwdriver to help center it. It can be a PIA. Especially when it's 90 outside.

Wish I had a picture. Need to take one when I get home....

[fairdeal]

I've wondered whether my F225 is missing a bushing or something, that should be "centering" the shift shaft.

There's enough "slop" for the LU to go into place easily - but without the shifter connected.

Done that - twice. That's a slow learner....



https://giphy.com/gifs/14qtZ0ljRnTCJG/html5

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I never noticed mine, if it had that play, don't think so.

I know I've NEVER moved it for re-assembly..

Now I do have the 25" engine, with the 5" extension section, if that makes a difference..

This last change, we had to rotate the drive-shaft a hair, then it slipped in like a glove...

[boscoe99]

I've wondered whether my F225 is missing a bushing or something, that should be "centering" the shift shaft.

There's enough "slop" for the LU to go into place easily - but without the shifter connected.

Done that - twice. That's a slow learner....

Nope. That is the way that it is. If and when the motor is tilted fully up to help with reinstalling the lower unit the shaft will drop downward a fuzz.

I generally suggest that folks install the LU with but one fastener. Then check that the throttle handle will shift the motor. Not fun to drive miles and miles to a ramp, only to launch the boat and then find that the shift shaft is not connected to the shift rod. Better to catch it at the time and only have to remove one bolt to drop the LU down engage the two parts.

A tool can be fabricated to assist with the installation of the LU. I would use one of those flexible plastic cutting board sheets, or something similar.

[Kirk Gibson]

Still wrestling

Still doesn't seem to want to go in...stops at an inch...pretty sure it is the shift linkage. Last time both engines went together no problem...a little wiggle and went right in.
Too tired to continue tonight ...I'll wrestle some more tomorrow and figure out whats wrong.
Thanks guys

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Perhaps an offshoot of Boscoes "plate".

Make one out of thin card-board to the lower unit. You really just need two side bolts marked and the linkage stub "hole" from the LU.

Once cut out, slide it over the mid section shifter shaft and TAPE it to the mid-section.

That should keep it from flopping about and once the LU IS started, simply rip out the card board...