Remote tank oil pump quit....solved

[<Hamfisted>]

Over the past month or so I've had a recurring problem with my '91 200 Yamaha remote oil tank pump not working when it should. In fact it wouldn't even run with the emergency toggle switch. I spent several hours troubleshooting the system and what I found was basic wire corrosion in the engine harness wiring that was killing the required voltage to the remote tank pump. My Yamahas are '91 model 200s, installed when my Grady was new, before the Saltwater Series were available. I don't know if Yamaha has changed, but the wiring harness on these motors are not even tinned wiring. Maybe on the Saltwater Series that was changed? I ended up spending several hours with a digital multimeter checking every wire in the harness. I even removed all the electrical tape the harness is wrapped in just so I could isolate wires specific to the oil pump harness. Going through the shop manual wiring diagram inch by inch looking for a possible culprit to my problem. I finally found the culprit to be just basic wire corrosion and that black film that builds up under the insolation jacket, and kills electrical flow through the wire. This problem was specifically focused at a splice (factory job) where the brown wire from the oil pump harness is spliced into a yellow wire (power source) that originates back at the CDI box. I removed the butt splice and clear heat shrink that Yamaha used and cleaned off some insolation far enough to find good wire, then just re-installed my own Ancor butt splice (heat shrinkable insolation type...) and sealed it up with the heat gun. Works like a champ for now, but I can see problems in the future with this type of wiring used in this harness. I have a new HPDI on my flats boat but I haven't cut into any wiring in the harness to see if they've changed to tinned wiring or not.

I just thought I'd post this troubleshooting experience in hopes that it helps someone else going through the same problem with their oil tank pump.


Mike

[rgyr]

I am new to this board but in doing a search for wiring of Multi Function Gauge, I noted that you had previously posted helpful information on thiat topic. I posted July 18 seeking info about the wiring of the light for the gauge display but did so as a reply to Larry's recent thread about wiring on/for an F75. One of the earlier replies on his topic addressed wiring for these gauges so I posted there. I am thinking now that perhaps my post is buried under a topic not closely enough related to attract attention and that I should have started a new topic.

Do you know if the circuit for the light in the display is grounded through a wiring harness hook-up or is it a separate black wire which should be connected to screw etc. on the back of the gauge?

Thanks

[<Hamfisted>]

If you look at the back of the multifunction gauge you'll see a blue and a black wire coming from the back of the gauge together, seperate from the other harness wiring. The blue wire is powered when your Nav light switch is ON and the black wire goes to a general ground not to the harness black wires. Connect the lighting ground wire to a good ground like all the other lights should be. Are you having a problem with your gauge lights?


Mike

[<rgyr>]

Mike,

Thanks so much for taking the time to respond to my post. I don't know if you read my initial post which was a reply to Larry's wiring topic so I will repeat some info.

Basically, although my Yamaha multi function gauge (tach/tilt/temp/oil) appears to be functioning fine as far as data readouts go, I do not believe the data screen lighting to be working. I repowered from a Yamaha 2 stroke to a 4 stroke F40 in the fall of 2000. This is supposedly a 2001 model. It ended up that I had to get a new 704 binicle control and new multi function gauge too. This was purchased and installed by a small boat dealer who is certified for Yamaha sales and service. I received the owner's manual and warranty card for the engine but received no technical data for the controls or gauge.

I use this small boat very seldom and have never taken it out after dark so I really had never thought to turn the nav light on while the engine was on until last week. I did it then in the afternoon but from what I could see it was not lighted.

I looked a the back of my gauge this evening. Keep in mind this one is almost 4 years old and does not have hour meter or resettable buttons on dial. All of the wires come out of one circular rubber grommet and are as follows:

A) green w/ brown stripe + green w/ white stripe
These two are together on one plastic connector which is plugged into a mating connector on wiring harness to engine.
B) gray + pink + orange (salmon?)+ black W/ white stripe
These four wires are together on one plastic connector which is plugged into a mating connector on wiring harness back to the engine.
C) blue
This wire has been connected to a white lead wire which is connected to the switch on the console for the nav lights.
D) yellow + green + black
These three wires are connected with snap connectors to a sheathed cable bundle of wires which runs over to my ignition switch panel. The yellow and black are each connected to double wires of the same color crimped onto the mating snap connector. The green wire is connected to a green wire in the same cable bundle.

Someone at work (an electrician who owns a boat) had told me that sometimes instrument gauges were grounded by means of the mounting screws on the back of the gauge. Using a wire with aligator clip ends, I connected the screw on the back of the gauge to the ground on my horn button. I turned engine ignition key to on and turned on the lights. The gauge was reading 0 rpm but was not lighted (that I can tell). I pulled the gauge out of its mounting hole and disconnected the black wire on the back from its snap connection to the double black wires. I grounded the black gauge wire. Once again the gauge display worked fine but was not lighted. When I took the clip off the ground, the gauge display went out. Obviously this black wire is grounding the gauge display, not just the light. I saw a small circular rubber hole cover on the back of the gauge and the number 020 printed in white on the side of the gauge body.

Maybe the light source itself is bad. Maybe I will go back after dark and try (if the mosquitos will let me) just to see if some sensor keeps the light dimmed down too low to see in bright daylight.

I appreciate any information or advice you may be able to share.

Thanks

[<rob>]

I seem to be having somewhat the same problem, my Oil pump motor does run except it isn't sending any oil to the main tank under the cowling cover. I'm running a '93 Yamaha PRO V 200 on the back of a '93 MasterCraft Barefoot 200 and whenever the Oil pump alarm sounds in the middle of a run (due to low oil level) we have to shut it down.

I've made several attempts to flip/hold the Emerg switch attempting to fill up the oil tank without manually adding oil myself, but it doesn't fill up. So, in the long end I end up pouring a 1/2 to a quart of oil in myself when needed.

Any suggestions regarding the oil pump motor?

[<Hamfisted>]

Rob, your problem is probably just a clogged filter screen or a pinch tube down in the remote tank. Take the tank out of the boat and empty it out. Find the inlet tube to the pump and disconnect it then blow back into the tube to flush out the screen and tube. You can use some carb cleaner too as long as you clean it out before putting it back together. Then refill the tank ( or just put a gallon in...) and check the operation of the pump using the emergency toggle switch and see if it pumps oil now. Try and get whatever was blocking the screen out of the tank before you refill it so it doesn't get back on the screen. You can wash the tank out with gas as long as you get it all out before refilling it too. As long as the pump runs it's usually an easy fix. Good luck.


Mike..... Miami, FL

Are these pumps user servicable ie. is there anything that can be replaced or renewed? mine appears to have power but doesn't do anything.
Are they something that has been known to fail?

[Aleutianwest]

Oil pump

You have power but is it grounded
alarms and i belive the pump run by grounds

[cyrillefrenchy]

the 2 stroke oil make sludge sometimes and clogg up the inline filter located next to the pump .
this filter like any filter need to be serviced sometimes especialy if the boat is not used a lot.
frenchy

[dorf]

Corroded Wiring......

I had a similiar problem with an Evinrude. ...All ...of my wiring was as you have described.

Local dealer was able to order a complete new harness even though the engine was 20 plus years old.

Seems like there are aftermarket companies that produce this sort of thing.(not sure of Yam)

It is worth looking into regardless of expense..