Any reasonably priced Trim Tilt Motor Brushes to be found? Lowest price I've found is $71.20 each.
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Take the trim motor to an auto-electric shop. They can probably service the motor for less than 50 bucks. New brushes, turn the armature to clean it up and under cut the mica spaces between the armature segments, etc.
Or try these folks. Good stuff at great prices.
https://www.dbelectrical.com/product...FdgDgQodPyUHVA
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Thanks for your comments and to past post regarding Trim Tilt motor trouble. My plan to repair my TT motor (69J-43880-00-00) off a 2004 F200TXRC depends on knowing the OEM size of brushes. Unable to locate the data, if anyone can assist please advise. My plan is to turn to polish only the cummutator as the micrometer measurements taken for undercut & diameter are within OEM specs. My buddy a 45 year veteran of behind the counter work in auto parts has located brushes of the same width & hight but will be to long. I plan on cutting them off & filing. HELP! What length are the OEM brushes? I don't want to guess.
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If anyone here knows how long the brushes should be when new I am going to be damned impressed.
Call these folks and ask if they will sell you just the brushes. Or give you a non-Yamaha part number for them.
https://www.dbelectrical.com/product...2002-2009.html
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Another thought is to cut the brush to length so that it is long enough to just about fully compress the brush spring. In other words, with just the spring in the brush holder compress the spring. Measure the distance from the top of the spring to the top of the brush holder. Cut the brush to that distance.
A guy with 45 years parts experience will know what I am talking about.
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knowing x and y - so many ways - from simple eyeballing - to the precise coordinates of any computer image viewer - to arrive at a value for "z"
so long as it fits under the spring - it will only get shorter with use
reminds me, I've always been intrigued by the concept of "turning" brake drums and rotors to take out the wear grooves when replacing worn brakes
I can understand completely why a professional shop does it:
they are liable for the brakes "working like new" the moment the customer rolls away
but for a DIYer - what's the point?
just take it easy on the brakes for a few miles - the pads/shoes will conform perfectly to that contour soon enough...
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Originally posted by fairdeal View Post
knowing x and y - so many ways - from simple eyeballing - to the precise coordinates of any computer image viewer - to arrive at a value for "z"
so long as it fits under the spring - it will only get shorter with use
reminds me, I've always been intrigued by the concept of "turning" brake drums and rotors to take out the wear grooves when replacing worn brakes
I can understand completely why a professional shop does it:
they are liable for the brakes "working like new" the moment the customer rolls away
but for a DIYer - what's the point?
just take it easy on the brakes for a few miles - the pads/shoes will conform perfectly to that contour soon enough...
The more a rotor is turned the thinner it gets. The thinner it gets the more susceptible it is to become warped.
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All good thoughts, thank you. The brushes are on order, they are a type of blank stock. B.J. my man went to the books to find them. Carbon head (2" long) with bare cooper wire (4"). Comes in packages of two @ $7.49 ea. Back in the day a good auto parts store also did machine work. They made a lot of things from stock purchased in bulk. Very rare to find a lathe outside a large commercial machine shop. Hardly anybody turns drums or rotors anymore. They say it's cheaper to buy new ones. When done I'll run & test the unit on the bench until I'm sure it's ready for a load. I'll post how it's going.
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