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  • Replace trim sender

    Hello!

    Is it possible to remove the trim sender from these motors without dismantling the whole thing as suggested in the service manual?

    Motors: 2001 OX66 225 LX/SX225TXRZ

    Thanks in advance.

  • #2
    I don't see where the SM says to dismantle anything. What page of what SM are you looking at?

    Normally the motor is raised to the full up tilt position. A long shanked screw drive can be used to gain access to the screw that holds the sender in place. Remove the screw. Remove the wire harness from the motor. Remove the sender.

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    • #3
      I could be reading incorrectly, that's why I'm looking for confirmation.

      The Trim sender is mentioned in the Clamp Brackets section of the Bracket Unit chapter. This made me believe I must follow the dismantling process described. This process go all the way to removing the power unit. I definitely must be interpreting this wrong.

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      • #4
        The Yamaha book is good, but not great. I don't think it's really meant for the layman, though. It's not designed as an all-inclusive step-by-step. I looked in mine, and while it doesn't mention anything about the motor, I can understand why you're confused. But the manual is talking about removing the entire bracket assembly, not just the trim sensor.

        I think this is one of those things that when you physically put your head down there and look at it, it will make much more sense. I've never removed mine, but from actually looking at it, it seems pretty straight forward.
        2000 Yamaha OX66 250HP SX250TXRY 61AX103847T
        1982 Grady Weekender/Offshore (removed stern drive & modded to be an OB)

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        • #5
          It is removed and replaced easily enough, especially when on a trailer as opposed to being in a wet boat slip. If so, take it to the beach and perform the work in shallow water where you can stand behind the boat in calm waters with the engine tilted...

          BTW, those trim sensors are expensive and hardly worth looking at as they are rudimentary inaccurate.
          If its got teats or tires, you bound to have trouble with it....

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          • #6
            Most of the time I like to follow the book since there could be something blocking the complete dismantling if the steps are not follow. I don't like surprises... In this case I agree It's obvious I should be able to remove it with the motor tilted up. I tried already but those bolts are not budging.

            The sensor IS very expensive... I would say ridiculously expensive... Three or four model revisions and it still fails. The reason I wanted to replace them is to see if it helps as a guide to keep the twin motors at the same level when trimming. For whatever reason one TTM is always faster than the other.

            I'm still debating tho if it's worth spending that much money.

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            • #7
              I only have a single, but I my sensor hasn't worked properly (flaky) since I'v ehad the boat. BUT, I just the good 'ol fashioned method of turning my head if I want to see exactly where the engine is. That method always works! Besides, for the most part, I trim based on feel, anyways.

              With twins, as you probably know, an excellent way to tell if they're trimming equal is to just base it on the boat being level (looking out over the bow) and/or the wake/prop wash.

              Personally, I'd say save your money for gas.
              2000 Yamaha OX66 250HP SX250TXRY 61AX103847T
              1982 Grady Weekender/Offshore (removed stern drive & modded to be an OB)

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              • #8
                That sensor is not really going to help you, it is not that accurate.

                I "center" them or "reset" by bringing them up to just above the top of the trim rods and then manually adjust each one down until it just contacts them. Then use the dual trim switch.

                As you said, the trim motor turns at a different speed, the bypass (prv) pressure valve is set different, the fluid flows faster, possibly a different fluid in each unit, internal bypass at the piston seals,... the list goes on and in the end I have just accepted the fact that we don't live in a perfect world.

                There really is no reason that you can't have them work like a clock, but is the time and effort really worth it? And in that same sense, there is no reason that you can't get a trim sensor that reads in 1/10th degree increments, but...

                Do you need both sensors or just one side?
                If its got teats or tires, you bound to have trouble with it....

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                • #9
                  Both sensors are stuck... one broke the lever off while trying to loose it.

                  I just rebuild both TT units. Except the valves, all seals and Orings were replaced and new fluid added. I really don't plan on going back at it for a while.

                  I have to agree with you, nothing is perfect... specially in a 16 years old motor. So yeah, I'll continue "feeling" the motor trimming for now.

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                  • #10
                    I only have a single engine and have it set to "one bar" when trimmed fully down.

                    I know, while @ cruising speed (25-30MPH, roughly), I need 3 -3.5 bars for proper trim, and no looking back.

                    Mines been very accurate...




                    .
                    Scott
                    1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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