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High voltage F225 TXRC

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  • High voltage F225 TXRC

    First time posting here.

    I've read thru as many posts about this issue as I can... here and elsewhere. I know there was a warranty/technical update campaign on the 03' F225 model year and mine is an 04' F225 TXRC with a 7-03 build date.

    My batteries group Sear's Diehard 31 AGM's about 4 yrs old. Never fail to start and although I have not load tested them, I'm fairly confident they're in good condition. Here's what I've observed.

    Upon start up (batteries on both) voltage is about 13.8 to 14.2 vdc. As the engine warms the voltage goes up to 15.8 at idle ( less then 5 mins) and if I running on one battery, the voltage output goes higher ... 16+ volts and
    have seen as high as 18vdc according to my gauges. I confirmed by using my Fluke digital volt meter. I can get voltage to drop as I introduce/turn on additional load... VHF, Stereo, lights etc. Voltage can be lowered to 14.8 with everything on, but isn't steady. + 1 volt variation but never goes below 14.8.

    Went by my Yamaha parts/repair center and purchased a "used" rectifier/regulator. The R/R came out of a 05 engine and the connector colors are 2 blue , 2 black and 1 grey... same as what was originally in mine. I understand connector color maybe indicative of the updated part but not sure what color is updated.

    So.... the R/R I just installed is doing exactly the same thing as my original. Yes I understand the used part maybe defective but I was told the engine was running fine with no issues. I also understand ... what else would they say? The Yamaha dealer is well established and reputable.

    So I checked the ground off the R/R as best I could (can't fine point of termination) did not check connection for resistance but used a test light in reverse. Ground is connected. My print shows two grounds (2 blk wires) but my R/R has only blk wire and one with a blk/white stripe. I checked only the blk wire.

    Because of the variation in voltage with a full load I suspect a high resistance to ground. Maybe the connection need to be more robust? or larger wire? but I'm not confident that I have identified the single blk wire as "the" only ground.

    So.... sorry about the length of my first post... but I tried to be comprehensive. Any help or suggests will be appreciated.

  • #2
    Originally posted by DavenFla View Post

    So I checked the ground off the R/R as best I could (can't fine point of termination) did not check connection for resistance but used a test light in reverse. Ground is connected. My print shows two grounds (2 blk wires) but my R/R has only blk wire and one with a blk/white stripe. I checked only the blk wire.
    Check the black wire to the black/white wire for continuity. Then check for resistance. What do you see?

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    • #3
      Originally posted by DavenFla View Post
      I've read thru as many posts about this issue as I can... here and elsewhere. I know there was a warranty/technical update campaign on the 03' F225 model year and mine is an 04' F225 TXRC with a 7-03 build date.
      The bulletin is not applicable to the R/R used on your model.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by DavenFla View Post

        Went by my Yamaha parts/repair center and purchased a "used" rectifier/regulator. The R/R came out of a 05 engine and the connector colors are 2 blue , 2 black and 1 grey... same as what was originally in mine. I understand connector color maybe indicative of the updated part but not sure what color is updated.
        The early R/R used gray connectors on the output side of the device. The updated R/R (what you have) uses blue connectors.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by boscoe99 View Post
          Check the black wire to the black/white wire for continuity. Then check for resistance. What do you see?
          Gotcha... pouring out right now. Those wires appear to go into the bowels of the wiring harness. It may take me a while to find and whole lot of electrical tape removal to locate the termination point.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by DavenFla View Post

            Went by my Yamaha parts/repair center and purchased a "used" rectifier/regulator. The R/R came out of a 05 engine and the connector colors are 2 blue , 2 black and 1 grey... same as what was originally in mine.

            that's 5 connectors

            sounds more like the "driver" than the r/r

            I guess if you replace the driver rather than the r/r the voltage regulation won't be improved.

            have to say its a heck of a lot easier to get to the driver

            Comment


            • #7
              Boscoe - I think the OP sees that finned gizmo laying in the lower cowl and thinks that's the r/r
              I certainly did at first.

              probably never imagines how far down he has to dig to actually find the r/r

              DavenFla - are there any rubber water hoses attached to your device?

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              • #8
                (as Boscoe certainly knows)

                this is the regulator rectifier



                this is not

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                • #9
                  Well I'll be... me and the yamaha guy are dummies.

                  OK.... detour to the right road. Thanks, I'll get back to you. I'll bring that baby back feeling so smart... and indignant, LOL.

                  Now I' wonder if the cooling line is just clogged? Is it possible to feel smarter and stupider at the same time?
                  Last edited by DavenFla; 06-28-2017, 05:25 PM.

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                  • #10
                    We have all been fooled. I was once fooled by the F200/F225 SM showing the isolator portion of the fuel pump driver as being two separate parts. Or so it appears. I think fairwinds set me straight.

                    Yamaha you fool me once, shame on you. You fool me twice, shame on me.

                    I don't trust anything Yamaha. Maybe trust but verify.

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                    • #11
                      OK the thing that looks exactly like a normal voltage R/R is a driver for what?

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                      • #12
                        within that single module are the switching relays ("drivers")

                        for both the lift pump and the high pressure pump



                        AND

                        these isolating diodes for the "Auxiliary charging lead"

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by DavenFla View Post
                          Is it possible to feel smarter and stupider at the same time?
                          Yes. It happens to me all of the time. When I learn something new (hopefully every day) I feel smarter about what I just learned but I feel a bit stupider as the new information makes me recognize all that I don't know. They are developing new stuff faster than I can learn the old stuff.

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                          • #14
                            So this driver is there because the HP pump requires so much power? And it also switches the the LP pump on and off to supply the HP pump fuel as it needs it? And it is an alternative charging point as well?

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                            • #15
                              I am wondering why they would put full wave bridges on DC circuits, unless there is not DC feeding the system at that point and it is converting AC to DC

                              Apparently the idolator is just another place the AC is converted to DC, but I would have thought it should have been regulated also
                              Last edited by 99yam40; 06-28-2017, 10:29 PM.

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