F15 Warning Lights

[panasonic]

Hello Gentlemen.

I was out with a friend fishing with his F15 MSHF. 6AGK-1003423. DOM 12/06.
I believe Bosceo said this was equivalent to a F15C model in a earlier post....this is a Canadian model.

My question is about the two warning lights on the engine pan right next to the steering tiller handle. One is a over temperature and the other a low oil pressure light.

While out the water pump crapped out, the engine peeing very slowly. The engine went into RPM reduction mode, max 2000 RPM. But NO over temp light came on and NO alarm. Owners Manual says there may or not be a Alarm installed in tiller handle, I could not see a buzzer on the handle. Limped back home at idle with engine peeing very slowly.

How do you test the warning lights to see if they actually work? Does anybody have a wiring diagram for this engine?

Have a water pump kit on order for it...


Thanks.

[boscoe99]

The lights (LED's) are tested using a 1.5 volt AA cell.

For the over temperature light connect the yellow/black wire lead to the positive terminal of the cell and connect the pink/black lead to the negative terminal of the cell. The lamp should illuminate. If not, the LED is defective.

For the low oil pressure light connect the yellow/red wire lead to the positive terminal of the cell and connect the pink/white lead to the negative terminal of the cell. The lamp should illuminate. If not, the LED is defective.

Wiring diagram would be in service manual LIT-18616-02-96.

[99yam40]

Boscoe posted something not long ago about testing lights on a small motor with a 1.5 volt battery, but I have no idea if that would correct on that F15.

also, keeping an overheated motor running even at idle is not a good thing to to.

You should shut it down and let it cool off.

the RPM reduction is to let the operator know there is a problem if the light and horn does not get their attention or even work. It also allows for the operator to get out of harms way before shutting it down

[panasonic]

Thanks Yami for the info on testing the lights, that's what I was looking for...the voltage to test.

As for running the engine after the over temp rpm reduction.I was about a mile away from boat launch with wind against me...so threw out anchor and waited an hour or more for engine to cool down. Then idled back half way...anchor for another 1/2 hour...then idled the rest of the way to dock. Cowl off.

The engine was still peeing, but slowly. Would not have done that if it had stopped peeing completely....no harm done.

Strange no over temp light. I wonder if the RPM reduction is designed to happen before light comes on?

I know the service manual has the wiring diagram, not my engine, I would have one. I told owner he needs to get one.

Tanks again.

[99yam40]

I would think the light and PRM reduction should happen at the same time

Yea, I know how the get back to land goes.
on my old 35 Eve-Jon I picked up some seaweed in the GOM and melted the impeller before I noticed it was not peeing anymore.

let it cool with cowling off for awhile but a T storm was headed my way, so headed for the beach.
at WOT it had a little showing from Tell Tail but not at lower RPM.
anyway. made it back safe.
when I opened up the water pump the fins were still there, but were not hitting the outside of the cup anymore. more like a rubber blob than an impeller.

[panasonic]

Thanks Yami for the info on testing the lights, that's what I was looking for...the voltage to test.

As for running the engine after the over temp rpm reduction.I was about a mile away from boat launch with wind against me...so threw out anchor and waited an hour or more for engine to cool down. Then idled back half way...anchor for another 1/2 hour...then idled the rest of the way to dock. Cowl off.

The engine was still peeing, but slowly. Would not have done that if it had stopped peeing completely....no harm done.

Strange no over temp light. I wonder if the RPM reduction is designed to happen before light comes on?

I know the service manual has the wiring diagram, not my engine, I would have one. I told owner he needs to get one.

Tanks again.

Bosco, you have a wiring diagram or schematic for the over temp/oil pressure systems on this engine?

I tested the lights themselves and they work. Need to further diagnose why the engine went into rpm reduction mode but no light after water pump crapped out?

Thanks

[boscoe99]

Bosco, you have a wiring diagram or schematic for the over temp/oil pressure systems on this engine?

I tested the lights themselves and they work. Need to further diagnose why the engine went into rpm reduction mode but no light after water pump crapped out?

Thanks

What I have is not very good. If the lights work but no light when the motor went into RPM reduction mode due to an over temperature event then check the wiring between the CDI and the light.

[99yam40]

Question,
does this F15 have just the overtemp switch or is there a temp sensor also?

If just the switch, then grounding the pink wire should cause the CDI/ecu to light up the overtemp LED, correct?
that should be easy to simulate and do some voltage testing

the print looks like just a switch for overheat and one for low oil

[boscoe99]

Question,
does this F15 have just the overtemp switch or is there a temp sensor also?

If just the switch, then grounding the pink wire should light up the overtemp LED, correct?

It has only the switch.

Interesting to note that the temperature switch uses the gy/black wire while the oil pressure switch uses the pink wire. Yamaha is either colour blind or likes to keep folks confused when they use different wire colours.

Some models the switch applies the ground directly to the LED. In this model it applies it to the CDI. And the CDI applies both the positive and the ground to the LED.

A Yamaha is not a Yamaha is not a Yamaha. I like to think of the motor as being a puzzle to be solved.

[panasonic]

Thanks fellows I will look into it some....more.

[99yam40]

My guess is that since the LED is using 1.5 volts and not 12v is the reason it does not use just a normal ground to block, it keeps the 2 voltage systems isolated/separated

yes, I missed the wire colors, thinking of the old 2 stroke motors

[panasonic]

Alright I got the water pump kit and installed it. The impeller was shot, the fins where not even touching the cup. I replaced everything except the plastic pump housing, which did not come with the kit.

Before the L/U was installed I connected the hose to the flush attachment and ran water through the engine, just in case any impellor pieces where in the cooling passages. All looked OK

Ran the engine on the muffs and to me it does not seem to pee hard enough.

When hose is connected to flush attachment only, no muffs, and engine not running, it pees very strong.

So a couple of questions:

1. Should this engine pee with just the muffs connected and the hose on full blast? (engine not running) Or does the engine have to be running for it to pee when on the muffs?

2. As the impeller was half gone, do you think the bits are now up the water tube or in the block somewhere impeding the water flow?

I have never seen this engine run until a couple of weeks ago and the water pump quit so I don't really have a baseline to judge the strength of the stream when working properly. My two strokes definitely have a much stronger stream.

I will take a video of it running tomorrow to post.

[pstephens46]

Did you remove thermostat? Maybe a couple pieces of rubber there.
I heard of a shop that will run motors without thermostat or the cover on muffs to try to blow debris out of motor. Briefly....

[boscoe99]

So a couple of questions:

1. Should this engine pee with just the muffs connected and the hose on full blast? (engine not running) Or does the engine have to be running for it to pee when on the muffs? It should not pee with just the muffs connected and the motor not running. The impeller vanes are blocking water from getting to the motor.

2. As the impeller was half gone, do you think the bits are now up the water tube or in the block somewhere impeding the water flow? Possibly. But hopefully the vane blade bits were so small that passed right on through.

I have never seen this engine run until a couple of weeks ago and the water pump quit so I don't really have a baseline to judge the strength of the stream when working properly. My two strokes definitely have a much stronger stream. Agreed.

I will take a video of it running tomorrow to post.

Did you ever get the light situation (or the lack thereof) sorted out?

[panasonic]

I removed the thermostat, no junk there. With the thermostat housing off I started the engine and water is indeed reaching the top of the block. Thermostat tests fine.

Bosco thanks for the replies. I believe now I am being overly cautious about the strength of the piss stream. As this is not my engine and I already had a incident with it...and I don't want another.

I looked at Bunch of YouTube videos this morning of F15's running on muffs or in a bucket and they look about the same.

I am used to looking at 2 strokes my 20 and 40 piss like race horses...lol

Going to look at the overheat light/switch later today...

Still will post a video of it peeing for you gentlemen to give thumbs up or down.