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40 ESF - Clean Oil Leaking From Exhaust

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  • 40 ESF - Clean Oil Leaking From Exhaust

    Hi - New to the forum here. Let me start out by saying that I'm fairly new to working on outboards but I do consider myself fairly mechanically inclined.

    I was given a 1989 40ESF a couple of years ago that wasn't running and figured it would be a good motor to fix up as a project. Long story short I rebuilt the carbs, replaced the water pump, put in new plugs and I've enjoyed the motor for two years now - it has been very reliable.

    With that said there has been one problem that I can't seem to figure out: After the boat has been sitting up for a few weeks, clean unburnt oil will leak out and will continue to slowly leak until the entire oil reservoir is empty. If the motor is tilted up the oil pools in the plastic air silencer (leaks through the bottom carb), If tilted down in the running position the oil leaks out of the prop. If I pull the spark plug for the bottom cylinder it is full of oil.

    So now before each trip (if the boat has been sitting up) I have to pull the bottom plug and crank the engine with a heavy rag behind it and blow all the oil out otherwise my starter can't even turn the thing over due to the amount of oil in the cylinder . Once that is done the boat performs great (of course pretty smoky at first) and seems to consume oil at what I'm guessing is a normal rate.

    The only real troubleshooting I've done was to replace all three check valves on the oil lines. This did not fix the problem. I also checked the linkage that actuates the oil pump and it seems to be adjusted correctly. Not sure where to go from here.

    Should I drop the $200 on a new oil pump?
    Also - and this is where I'm feeling like a novice - I saw in the schematic that there are some reed valves behind the carbs. If these are functioning properly shouldn't they keep the cylinder from filling with oil? I might be misunderstanding the role/operation of these things though.

    Oh and I know I can just disable the pump and pre-mix but I would really like to have this thing work as designed. All of my internet research has turned up how incredibly reliable the precision blend system is. I feel like I should be able to fix this.

    Sorry for the long first post but I wanted to put as much info in there as possible.

    Any help is appreciated!

  • #2
    My thoughts,
    just because you replaced the check valves, does not mean they are functioning properly.
    use a syringe or mighty vac hand pump to test them

    might be some trash keeping one from closing off properly

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by 99yam40 View Post
      My thoughts,
      just because you replaced the check valves, does not mean they are functioning properly.
      use a syringe or mighty vac hand pump to test them

      might be some trash keeping one from closing off properly
      Fair enough - worth a shot. Thanks. Anything else you think it could be if those check out?

      Comment


      • #4
        Did you find the answer to the oil leak ?

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by 86Bonita View Post
          Did you find the answer to the oil leak ?
          Not yet - I got my hands on a MityVac but have been travelling for work and am about to go on vacation for a week. I'm hoping to spend some time on the motor when I get back.

          Comment


          • #6
            Clean out the oil tank.Clean out the lines and check the check valves with the mighty vac as 99Yam40 says...see what happens.

            The reed valves won't keep oil out of the crank case or cylinders. They are one way valves that let the air/fuel mixture from the carbs into the crank case and not let the fuel charge back out the way it came in.

            Like you said.. you can always mix the gas. I assume you use a portable 5 gallon tank...not much trouble to mix and go. At least you then know for sure that the engine is getting the proper amount of oil


            Many people have lost perfectly good engines over faulty auto lube systems.

            Let us know how you do.

            Comment


            • #7
              Alright so I got my hands on a mityvac and finally found some time to work on it. First off I drained the oil tank - ***! I drained 1 cup of oil and 1/4 was water. There was also a light green layer between the oil and water that was kind of sludgy.

              So then I pulled the check valves and tried to pull vacuum from the side that the arrow faces. Two held a vacuum and one did not. Is that how I should test them? I wasn't real sure what the test procedure was supposed to be exactly.

              So I guess I'll clean and flush the oil tank real good and order yet another check valve. Does it seem I'm on the right track?

              Thanks again for the help.

              Comment


              • #8
                I would think so

                Comment


                • #9
                  For reference this was what I drained from the bottom of the oil tank!

                  20170808_201734.jpg

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                  • #10
                    Seems like all of that water and sludge would have killed that motor from lack of oil long ago.

                    I guess the sump was lower than the oil pick up, and that saved the water from being picked up.

                    those with oil tanks should drain and clean them from time to time

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                    • #11
                      I was thinking the same thing. That sump saved me.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Alright so I went ahead and ordered new oil lines while I was ordering the check valve - figured I'd change them while everything is apart (they look like hell).

                        Is there a specific process for priming/purging the oiling system once everything is re-assembled?

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          check your service manual for a procedure.
                          I believe there is a screw you loosen to help bleed air out of the system.
                          I also tells you to premix while doing it to make sure the motor gets the oil it needs while working the air out

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