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  • Possible To Manually Steer Motor

    This is a general question regarding manually steering without hydro function. He has a '06-'09 F150, not sure of model.

    Fishing with my cousin today on his boat. As we headed out this morning he noticed the hydro steering was much tighter than usual. We got about 1 mile away from the dock and completely lost steering. He'd turn the wheel but the engine would not turn. We inspected the hydro lines and discovered a section under the helm had been chewed through by a rat.

    Luckily the *****ing motor was fully charged, as it motored us all the way back to dock. Before we decided to use the *****ing motor I tried to steer the engine manually. He'd kick it in gear and I'd push or pull the engine to maintain a heading. Strange thing was I could easily move motor to starboard, but impossible to move to port.

    Why would the engine move over to one side but not the other? Also, with no hydro fluid in the lines is it harmful to steering system to move engine manually?
    Jason
    1998 S115TLRW + 1976 Aquasport 170

  • #2
    It's normal to be easy to move one way, simply because the propellor is moving it that way, don't think you will do any harm moving motor with no hydraulic oil!

    Comment


    • #3
      Yes, kinda,
      I had a hydraulic steering hose blow out a ways from home by myself on my twin 200 Stamas. I disconnected the tiebar and sat on the port motor and steered with my feet one foot on front side of motor and one on rear. 6 hours in the blazing sun at 5-7 mph. Only issue was that to stop I had to let go of motor and run to helm to turn key off as the boat went around in circles due to steering torque. I should have just pulled the manual choke.....

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Jason2tpa View Post

        Why would the engine move over to one side but not the other? Also, with no hydro fluid in the lines is it harmful to steering system to move engine manually?
        It was not moving because you were not being manly enough about it.

        It would not be harmful to the steering system to steer the motor manually. Enough fluid remains within the system to keep everything lubricated. The only harm may come to your muscles, which may quickly tire moving the boat in one direction, but as you note, not the other.

        What you were feeling is caused by what is referred to as "P" factor. If the propeller shaft is not perfectly parallel with the water line (say the engine is trimmed downward a tad) then the blade moving downward has a greater angle of attack than does the blade going up. The greater angle of attack will tend to move the back end of the motor around to the right. With a normal gear case that is. The front of the motor turns to the left. The boat then wants to turn to the right.

        If the motor is trimmed up such that the propeller shaft is not parallel, then the effect is just the opposite. Which is why motors come with anode trim tabs. Which is why the tab is normally turned to the right, to try and counter "P" factor.

        Do this in your own boat. Get onto plane starting with motor trimmed fully downward. Don't trim it us. Get up to speed. Turn right. Then turn left. It will be easier to turn to the right than the left. Now trim the motor up well beyond your normal trim angle. Turn right. Then turn left. It should now be easier to turn to the right than to the left.

        Now think of a single engine airplane having long long propeller blades. The turning force is much greater. On take off and climb out the crankshaft of the engine is angled upwards going towards the front. The propeller blade on the right hand side coming downward will try like hell to turn the airplane to the left. The pilot has to push like heck on the right rudder pedal to keep the airplane straight. If he has rudder trim then he can use that to move a tab on the rudder to do the work for him. Of course when he levels out in cruise he has to either readjust the trim tab or he has to stop pushing on the right rudder pedal.

        Comment


        • #5
          would it help if the boat motor was trimmed to were the prop shaft was parallel to the waters surface while having to steer manually as they were doing running along at slow speeds?

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          • #6
            Originally posted by 99yam40 View Post
            would it help if the boat motor was trimmed to were the prop shaft was parallel to the waters surface while having to steer manually as they were doing running along at slow speeds?
            Absolutely.

            Comment


            • #7
              It was explained above in much greater detail than I would have, but google "prop walk" to help explain why it's harder to turn the engine in one direction as opposed to the other.

              In a pinch, use any type of hydraulic fluid to refill the system - chances are you'll have air bubbles and such so it will be far from perfect, though. Of course, repairing the rat hole is the first step. I've never had to do this, but as I was reading through your post, this is the first idea that popped in my head: For example: try a piece of a soda can to generously cover the hole. Then secure piece of tin with tape. Further secure the tape with zip ties or even rope (de-strand a 3/8" line to make smaller diameter pieces) by my wrapping it tightly around.

              Any tape can work in a pinch, but a roll of emergency tape would be good to keep on board. Any halfway decent, onboard tool kit that you make up should include basic things such as tape, zip ties, etc.

              And another "quick thought"... secure a boat hook or paddle alongside the base of the motor hood (sort of a "tiller" handle). You should be able to wrap rope around it in such a way to make it work. The "handle" will give you some more leverage. Now, since the motor hood is convex, and you don't want to put too much stress on the middle of the hood for fear of ruining it, slip a life vest (or cut it open to remove some of the foam pieces) under the front and rear of the hood (between the boat hook and the hood). Enough so that the hook doesn't contact the center of the hood. If you have any 2x4's on the boat, those would work too. You just need something to spread the load out. Just don't make the handle too long or you may break the handle easily.

              I'm sure there are other "quick fixes" that can be done - this was just the first thing that popped in my head, as an example.
              Last edited by DennisG01; 06-26-2017, 12:06 PM.
              2000 Yamaha OX66 250HP SX250TXRY 61AX103847T
              1982 Grady Weekender/Offshore (removed stern drive & modded to be an OB)

              Comment


              • #8
                I tried to use boat hook and duct tape: fail

                Comment


                • #9
                  Just saw this at the Etec site

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    running a twin on one motor and steering that one with a rope would not be my idea of a good day on the water.
                    I think I would rather be at work

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I thought you could get on plane with one Etec??? Wasn't that the big thread on THT?

                      I was being sarcastic. That boat would end up going in circles with no passengers. And end up on YouTube.
                      Last edited by pstephens46; 06-26-2017, 09:57 PM.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        yeah...but no steering could make for wild ride.....or yes, steer with that rope setup planed off!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by BQUICK View Post
                          I tried to use boat hook and duct tape: fail
                          Duct tape is wonderful stuff, but I can definitely see how it would fail in that circumstance... or at least more likely to fail. But of course, I'm sure that wouldn't be as "exciting" as sitting on top of the engine. Good thing you didn't fall in or we may never had heard about that story!
                          2000 Yamaha OX66 250HP SX250TXRY 61AX103847T
                          1982 Grady Weekender/Offshore (removed stern drive & modded to be an OB)

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Yeah, maybe a life jacket was in order.....I did have plenty of beer tho....

                            Solomons Island to Cambridge MD steering with my feet.....better than being towed!!!

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by boscoe99 View Post
                              It was not moving because you were not being manly enough about it.

                              It would not be harmful to the steering system to steer the motor manually. Enough fluid remains within the system to keep everything lubricated. The only harm may come to your muscles, which may quickly tire moving the boat in one direction, but as you note, not the other.

                              What you were feeling is caused by what is referred to as "P" factor. If the propeller shaft is not perfectly parallel with the water line (say the engine is trimmed downward a tad) then the blade moving downward has a greater angle of attack than does the blade going up. The greater angle of attack will tend to move the back end of the motor around to the right. With a normal gear case that is. The front of the motor turns to the left. The boat then wants to turn to the right.

                              If the motor is trimmed up such that the propeller shaft is not parallel, then the effect is just the opposite. Which is why motors come with anode trim tabs. Which is why the tab is normally turned to the right, to try and counter "P" factor.

                              Do this in your own boat. Get onto plane starting with motor trimmed fully downward. Don't trim it us. Get up to speed. Turn right. Then turn left. It will be easier to turn to the right than the left. Now trim the motor up well beyond your normal trim angle. Turn right. Then turn left. It should now be easier to turn to the right than to the left.

                              Now think of a single engine airplane having long long propeller blades. The turning force is much greater. On take off and climb out the crankshaft of the engine is angled upwards going towards the front. The propeller blade on the right hand side coming downward will try like hell to turn the airplane to the left. The pilot has to push like heck on the right rudder pedal to keep the airplane straight. If he has rudder trim then he can use that to move a tab on the rudder to do the work for him. Of course when he levels out in cruise he has to either readjust the trim tab or he has to stop pushing on the right rudder pedal.

                              Awesome details, makes sense now. Dam rats, them sonsabitchs can chew through almost anything.
                              Jason
                              1998 S115TLRW + 1976 Aquasport 170

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