Tech Answer on 250TXR 2007 4 Stroke

[Capt.Terry]

just a heads up, putting sillycone on may lead to it squeezing out into the water passage ,coming loose and going somewhere you do not want it to be plugging things up

Yes, this was silicon lubricant not the caulking type don't think the lubricant would be an issue and it was so little.

[Capt.Terry]

Who did the pump and I gather they did NOT do the entire kit?

IMO, I'd be back in there and do an entire kit.

*Most shops will NOT do just an impeller- for the reason that should there STILL be an issue, they get to do a "do over". A slightly warped/overheated housing WILL cause pumping issues. (Been documented many times here..)

I ask in that the drive shaft HAS to be turned clockwise when installing the cup.

Good luck..

99YAM, I believe he used silicone LUBRICANT, not sealer..

.

Answer to follow said it needs approval from a moderator

OK must have lost that reply but here is another one. ?
I did the impeller, as I did not have a kit only a replacement impeller available, the previous owner said he had the impeller replaced and watched the service man do it ..Yeah, right, I should have know better. The impeller looked like it was in there for a while one fin tip was broke but still attached and the impeller was out of shape not what I would have expected from a impeller replaced maybe a few months earlier? So with that we thought this was causing the issue and possibly would increase the pissing stream for this engine. Stream didn't change and neither did the idle alarm issue, go figure. I never thought to check for warping ? but I have a full kit now and am going to recheck and replace everything. I have the plate the gasket,impeller s/s housing, o rings, plastic housing, etc. i'll compare the plastic housings to see if I can see any warping?
Do you have a trick in replacing the lower unit to making sure the shift engagement is correct before bolting everything?
only thing I can think of is to check if in gear and prop does not turn?
Oh by the way yes I used a little silicon lubricant not he silicon caulk, dont think the lubricant would cause an issue anywhere and it was so little.
Will do this replacement later and advise what I see.


Well just got done, impeller was ok, but I found after inspection see photo Housing comparison old vs new #2 6 25 2017.JPG Old water pump housing.JPG

You were right not warping but the housing was melted and had to cause a flow issue, and even maybe a pressure issue at idle. Glad I did get all the parts to do a total, the only two parts I did not get are the two rubber parts up in the motor housing unit where the pump connects too. I took it all the way down to the s/s plate and gasket.I know this is good now!

I did have an issue on installing the thermostats they did not have washers but washers are available and the ones coming out from the engine did not have any either? but the thermostats did have a rubber top that looked like it would be pressed against the housing when tightened as a seal, any thoughts on that ?
Thanks for the advice..
will let all know if problem is gone, if it is, hope this will help some one else.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Yep, that message pops up, every once in awhile for no reason- "it's" not unusual..

[boscoe99]

Answer to follow said it needs approval from a moderator

If the answer disappears into moderator land it is not always lost. By using the back button you can get back to your answer. Then modify it as necessary to try and do an end run around whatever it is that the system is trying to avoid.

[pstephens46]

Answer to follow said it needs approval from a moderator

The posts never seem to reappear once they disappear into the "hole".

[boscoe99]

The posts never seem to reappear once they disappear into the "hole".

I seem to recall being able to get back to one if I used the back button. I am now trying to come up with a message that will be rejected so I can test this theory. Unfortunately, I don't know what the system is looking for so as to route it to a moderator.

[pstephens46]

I seem to recall being able to get back to one if I used the back button. I am now trying to come up with a message that will be rejected so I can test this theory. Unfortunately, I don't know what the system is looking for so as to route it to a moderator.

That's makes sense. Other than that, no mod will ever release post. There must be hundreds somewhere. Would make interesting reading.

I kept getting rejected awhile back. I think it may have been the postimage hosting site I was using. I noticed they tag an advertisement link on the bottom
of most pics. As soon as I switched to tinypic the post went through.

[pstephens46]

I seem to recall being able to get back to one if I used the back button. I am now trying to come up with a message that will be rejected so I can test this theory. Unfortunately, I don't know what the system is looking for so as to route it to a moderator.

Try typing "easy directions for making pipe bombs".

[pstephens46]

That didn't work either.

[99yam40]

But now you are on a list

[pstephens46]

My dog and I enjoy visitors.

[Capt.Terry]

See post above # 16 with photos of results of re-inspection of pump housing and impeller

[pstephens46]

See post above # 16 with photos of results of re-inspection of pump housing and impeller

Old housing does look odd. Thermostat should have a gasket between cover and block.

Maybe not. Diagram sucks. Boscoe's fault....

Do you have part 21 on the following page?

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Ya...201/parts.html

[boscoe99]

Old housing does look odd. Thermostat should have a gasket between cover and block.

Maybe not. Diagram sucks. Boscoe's fault....

Do you have part 21 on the following page?

2006 and Later F250TXR Yamaha Outboard CYLINDER CRANKCASE 1 Diagram and Parts

What did I do? What's wrong?

[Capt.Terry]

I checked further just now, the thermostats come with the rubber gasket already attached no need for the ring anymore use to be in the past they said that rubber in the drawing is already on the part.