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You were supposed to get in touch with Boats.net and get this clarity problem fixed! Now consider yourself on an immediate PIP. Performance Improvement Plan. 90 days. Checkpoints at 30, 60 and 90 days.
I checked further just now, the thermostats come with the rubber gasket already attached no need for the ring anymore use to be in the past they said that rubber in the drawing is already on the part.
My F150 was pictured the same; separate seal (BUT was on the thermostat) as I recently replaced mine.
Glad you found something amiss..
Re the shifter, last time I pulled my LU, I made sure it was in neutral (control box) and didn't touch the splined shaft (in the LU).
I have NOT done it but you should be able to put a small vise grip (I'd use a needle nose with plastic tubing around the ends to prevent damage-Or tubing around the shifter stub), then rotate the prop while shifting the short shaft till you find neutral. Should feel it it click in.
Reassemble and check adjustment at the sliding, cable end (adjust cable if necessary) till it EASILY slips over the engine upper connection. Should be a mark aligning everything in the black plastic when in neutral.....
Two questions,
(1) Did you grease the mid section drive bushing with the correct grease?
It's a mid section bushing that's tucked up inside the mid section. That bushing helps support the drive shaft. You'll see a machined smooth part on the main drive shaft.
If not greased with the proper Yamaha Waterproof grease(and Walmart waterproof wheel bearing grease WON'T cut it), it'll squeak and make odd noises, besides excess wear and eventual bushing failure..
I wipe out all the old grease (it's not that far to reach up to) , get it nice and clean, then re-apply fresh grease (splines too).
TownsendsFJR1300,
I only have these choices to chose from at the moment, can any one of these do if you know of them at all ? grease.jpg I was thinking the Quicksilver that's used for Mercury's but the one in the can said high heat and I think lithium?
I have just cleaned the shaft thinking I was doing a nice job as it had all the sticky manufacture lube I thought was build up.. so now I need to replace it, would not have given thought to this until your post and advice, and I thank you. One has 24C quicksilver has teflon added, Lubrimatic has White lithium, and Sierra is a synthetic blend for high performance ???
I personally would not use the third, but it is the closest with what you have.
From personal experience, I put Walmart brand marine wheel bearing grease on that bushing. Lasted ONE month before squealing. Got to do a "do over".
Waterproof, Evinrude (the blueish stuff in a squeeze tube) works fine. I use the Yamaha brand (fairly cheap for a tub actually and lasted over 3 years-light use).
I'm sure Mercury, Suzuki, etc has waterproof greases designed for HD waterproof purposes as well...
Worse case (if you can't get the other stuff), use the one. Should you hearing chirping or squeaking (for me, about 1,700 RPMs), you should yank the LU and use the Yamaha suggested grease or equivalent..
A lot cheaper and easier than should the bushing seize. There have been cases here (not alot) of that bushing (it has fairly thin "veins" between the OD and ID) wallowing out the mid section, or rubber breaking off (requiring bushing replacement).
It is waterproof, good for splines, wheel bearings, NOT needle bearings. May be ok, (and I would trust fairdeals opinion W/O doubt) but your talking a solid drive shaft spinning up to 6,000 RPM's with close tolerances to the bushing... I'd want to know, no doubt, I'm NOT doing this again within a year...
OK Guys, you got me going, there has to be something here on the island to handle this! and you both do not think in addition marine grease in a tube is adequate for this job, because of the RPM's of the shaft. I'll keep checking LU is just sitting in the room I am not planning shortly to get on the water so I have time.I maybe can get Yamaha Waterproof grease from the other island. much thanks and I am sure less problems in the future.
capt. terry did you check the exhaust tube as Boscoe99 recommended ? Do that before you put it back together. If there are perforations in the tube ,you are wasting your time putting it back together
Once re-assembled, plz post back about the temp / idle overheat issue.
Tks..
Oh I had to use the quicksilver 2,4C "Mercury" Grease it checked out for the needed requirements. But would not have done it with out you guys saying to do it, thanks again.
Yes, to re-post after I check it out, do not worry I am anxious myself to know how this all worked out.
But it is so hot and sunny all the time and boat is on trailer in the sun, no shade , I need a cloudy day to check some wiring that seems to have some connectivity issues with power to courtesy lights.
The exhaust tube looked OK to me
I will post back as soon as I get it back in the water.
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