Power Trim/Tilt Died F250

[HMBJack]

Hi Guys,

Could use your advice.

2006 Model F250 TXR Serial # 6P2X1004882

My engine is stuck in the half up position.
Neither the switch at the helm binnacle nor base of powerhead moves it.
With the hood off, I can hear clicking when the up/down switch is triggered.
I can also feel the relay vibrate when it clicks.

I checked and I know the fluid level is good in the reservoir.

Last time I raised the engine, the PTT motor sounded "strained". A sound I never heard before. Also, I have twins, and the two motors when raised - the starboard motor always came in second place to reach the top. This starboard motor is the one that's stuck in the half up position.

So - I suppose it is either the PTT Relay or the electric PTT motor on the bracket.

To check - I was thinking of removing the PTT Relay on my port engine and installing it on the Starboard engine. My hope is it is the relay (easy to install) but I fear it is the PTT electric motor on the bracket (Hard to remove and install).

Your thoughts?

[99yam40]

Put a volt meter on the output leads of the relay to see if the voltage heading to the T&T motor it getting thru

[scofflaw]

Easier test ...undo the blue and green wire from the relay... touch them to a 12 v power source and a ground. Should be right there for you.

Works it's a relay. No workie it's the t/t motor

[fairdeal]

Easier test ...undo the blue and green wire from the relay... touch them to a 12 v power source and a ground. Should be right there for you.

Works it's a relay. No workie it's the t/t motor

exactly - just power the motor directly and find out.


but since "the relay" is actually two completely separate coils/contacts
if the problem is the same both up and down -
its either a very bad power or ground connection at the relay
or a bad motor.

Brushes do eventually wear down to a nubbin.

[99yam40]

the binding up before stopping also sounds like motor problem

[HMBJack]

Thanks guys.

It definitely turned out to be a faulty power/trim tilt motor. No issue with the relay.

Will replace it and all should be good after that.

I assume the aftermarket units (one third the price) are less reliable (?)

[scofflaw]

If your handy, you could probably fix the one you have. Not a whole lot to it. Clean up the armature and housing and make sure the brushes have some life left to them and aren't sticking

[fairdeal]

the original tilt/trim motor on my F225TXRD failed last October: brushes worn too far.

So OK - I'll put in new brushes.

While I was still reeling at the $84.75 list price per brush (x 4)

I discovered the aluminum brush holder - the "bottom part of the motor" -

was corroded and had split apart while removing the housing.


So I went with a $130 eBay "aftermarket" motor.

It works fine - but this is a photo from a couple of days ago -

installed for barely six months:

[HMBJack]

After removing my PTT motor, I removed the cover and checked out the stator, etc.

Everything was black inside and it smelled burnt sort of. Not sure but I think it leaked water at the O ring and fried itself inside when under load. Not worth rebuilding IMHO.

[99yam40]

I thought I posted about aftermarket motor I have.
same as Fairdeal paint and way they are made. rust very quickly

[Captn Dave]

You'll want to seal all joints on the aftermarket motor and also paint it with a rust inhibiting paint.

[scofflaw]

After removing my PTT motor, I removed the cover and checked out the stator, etc.

Everything was black inside and it smelled burnt sort of. Not sure but I think it leaked water at the O ring and fried itself inside when under load. Not worth rebuilding IMHO.

Nothing got fried. Black is good, probably brush dust. White would be corrosion from a water leak. Probably worth having a deeper look. OEM quality is much better than the aftermarket crap Have your local alternator/starter/electrical repair shop take a look at it. Brush holder assembly, 3 o rings, cleanup the parts and you could get out of this for short money.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Nothing got fried. Black is good, probably brush dust. White would be corrosion from a water leak. Probably worth having a deeper look. OEM quality is much better than the aftermarket crap Have your local alternator/starter/electrical repair shop take a look at it. Brush holder assembly, 3 o rings, cleanup the parts and you could get out of this for short money.

Plus 1 ^^^.

Clean it up real good, inspect for salt water corrosion and then decide. You can test the armature, etc to make sure everything's good, (short of worn brushes).

[99yam40]

Nothing got fried. Black is good, probably brush dust. White would be corrosion from a water leak. Probably worth having a deeper look. OEM quality is much better than the aftermarket crap Have your local alternator/starter/electrical repair shop take a look at it. Brush holder assembly, 3 o rings, cleanup the parts and you could get out of this for short money.

when all of the copper is black, it is not normal or good

[HMBJack]

Okay, thanks to your encouragement, I took a second look at my original PTT motor.

I took it all apart and cleaned it up real good with WD-40 and Brake Cleaner spray. Got all the black off. I noticed one of the 4 brushes was worn way down and a second down a bit. The last 2 brushes didn't look worn at all. Just under 1,300 hours BTW on my 2006 F250.

So after cleaning (including Q-Tips) and drying it real good, I put it all back together and tested it.

The darn thing came to life! Yay!!

So, while I purchased and will install a new one today, thanks to you boys, I now have a good back up! I will replace the 2 worn brushes with parts I ordered from this site (@$72 each - ouch!).

Lastly - when reassembling a PTT motor, do you put any dielectric grease on the contacts where the brushes touch the armature? And - should I spray anything inside or keep it DRY? Thanks,