oil tank problem 2003 150

[boattechlm]

Hi, i have a 2003 VX150TLRB The oil tank on the engine will not fill from the remote tank.
with the key on i have 12v to the brown wire at the pump.
The remote switch (emergency switch) does work and will pump oil when activated.
The float is new in the tank on the engine (same problem as old float)
I have a good ground going into the float.
The alarm comes on as it is supposed to when oil gets to bottom line, but pump does not turn on.
I have checked the blue / green wire going into the C.D.I. (ECU) unit when oil gets low i have good continuity to ground, however the blue wire coming out of the C.D.I. (ECU) going to harness for oil tank in boat does not change NO continuity to ground.
Is it possible the ECU C.D.I unit is bad ?
Is there something else i can try to test ?

Thanks

[boscoe99]

Hi, i have a 2003 VX150TLRB The oil tank on the engine will not fill from the remote tank.
with the key on i have 12v to the brown wire at the pump.
The remote switch (emergency switch) does work and will pump oil when activated.
The float is new in the tank on the engine (same problem as old float)
I have a good ground going into the float.
The alarm comes on as it is supposed to when oil gets to bottom line, but pump does not turn on.
I have checked the blue / green wire going into the C.D.I. (ECU) unit when oil gets low i have good continuity to ground, however the blue wire coming out of the C.D.I. (ECU) going to harness for oil tank in boat does not change NO continuity to ground.
Is it possible the ECU C.D.I unit is bad ?
Is there something else i can try to test ?

Thanks

I would check the wiring for the remote tank sensor assembly to verify that it is functioning correctly. The wiring and the switch within the sensor. That is generally the most likely reason for the automatic system to stop working.

A wire carries a ground from the engine block to the sensor switch at the remote tank. The switch is closed when the oil tank float is up because there is oil in the remote tank. A wire then carries a ground from the switch to the CDI. There are connectors within the wire harness that conveys the ground. They are known to be problematic due to corrosion or simply poor connectivity. If anything prevents the ground from getting to the CDI then the CDI thinks the remote oil tank is low on oil. It will inhibit the automatic oil transfer system from functioning.

Black wire from the block to the sensor switch. Black wire with red tracer from the sensor switch to the CDI.

If a Yamaha tachometer were installed you could see the lack of ground in the form of the right light going out and the middle light flashing.

[boattechlm]

additional description

i have checked the ground at the switch (float) it is good.
i also moved the float up slightly the blue/green wire showed good continuity to ground all the way to the CDI.

in other words the blue/green wire shows continuity to ground going right into the CDI when the float drops. (to activate pump)

The blue wire coming from the CDI does not (no change) when blue/green wire sends ground signal.

[boscoe99]

i have checked the ground at the switch (float) it is good.
i also moved the float up slightly the blue/green wire showed good continuity to ground all the way to the CDI.

in other words the blue/green wire shows continuity to ground going right into the CDI when the float drops. (to activate pump)

The blue wire coming from the CDI does not (no change) when blue/green wire sends ground signal.

The switch that I am talking about does not use a blue/green wire. It is a black wire with a red tracer. It is the switch in the sensor in the boat mounted remote tank. If the CDI does not get a ground from that sensor switch it will not allow the automatic transfer of oil to happen. It is designed that way. It has nothing whatsoever to do with the sensor assembly in the main engine mounted oil tank.

Lets say that the float dropping in the main engine mounted oil tank closes the switch in the main engine mounted oil tank. That is a sign to the CDI that it needs to transfer oil. But first the CDI checks the remote tank to see if there is sufficient oil in it. If yes, the auto-transfer system will function. If not, the CDI won't do anything. Either the boat mounted remote tank is low on oil or the system thinks that it is due to a wiring problem. A problem between the CDI and the remote boat mounted oil tank. Until that problem is fixed the system is not going to operate. It is designed that way. There is no sense in turning on a pump if the system thinks there is no oil that can be pumped.

[boattechlm]

ok I did not know that , i will check it now

[boscoe99]

Look at the wiring in the middle and right hand side, on the bottom.

[boattechlm]

ok sorry i did not understand the first time. I do have a good ground going into that switch but very weak coming out.
Can i jump the black to the black red ?
If so will the oil system preform as intended ?
Can i run it that way until i get a new switch for the tank ?
I am not worried about oil level gauge as my tach is not working.
Thank you

[boscoe99]

ok sorry i did not understand the first time. I do have a good ground going into that switch but very weak coming out.
Can i jump the black to the black red ?
If so will the oil system preform as intended ?
Can i run it that way until i get a new switch for the tank ?
I am not worried about oil level gauge as my tach is not working.
Thank you

Yes, for a test the black can be jumpered to the black/red. I would do it at the engine harness side connector. Using a small diameter paper clip. See photo below. With acknowledgement to Mr. fairdeal.

Then do this test. Remove the sight sump from the bottom of the main oil tank. Drain the oil into a clean container and add it to the remote tank. Clean, reattach and secure the sump to the bottom of the main oil tank.

Turn the key to the on position only. The horn should sound. The pump should come on and commence to fill the main tank from the remote tank. The pump will run for 180 seconds or until the main tank is full, whichever occurs first. This will tell you that the alarm and the transfer system are all hunky dory.

[boattechlm]

I jumped the blk to the blk/red.
drained and cleaned the main tank
tank filled as normal shut off at top line of tank. Thank You

Can i run the boat if i permanently add a jumper wire (same as test) ?
I assume the Main function of the blk/red is for oil level, Is this correct ?
again i am not using a tach and check my oil level in the boat often.

Thanks

[boscoe99]

I jumped the blk to the blk/red.
drained and cleaned the main tank
tank filled as normal shut off at top line of tank. Thank You

Can i run the boat if i permanently add a jumper wire (same as test) ?
I assume the Main function of the blk/red is for oil level, Is this correct ?
again i am not using a tach and check my oil level in the boat often.

Thanks

It is your boat. Do as you wish. I don't recommend doing what you want to do as a permanent solution however.

I would first remove and reattach the connectors in the oil harness several times. This will often do enough to make the system function normally again. Do that and see what happens. The system may once again function as designed.

[boattechlm]

OK thank you , i have tried messing with those connectors several times with no results. it seems the problem may be it the switch (level indicator) in the oil tank.
Main thing is by jumping those wires together i did not want to cause more problems.