1991 ProV200 bogging down

[dilb1229]

Appears floats may be sticking. Upon re-assembling one of the carbs, I shook it several times and could tell that one and sometimes both floats stuck in the open condition. Seems like it is/was due to too much travel. Carb specs call out 5/8" for the float level, but doesn't say anything about how much travel it should have. Trial and error led me to about 3/8" travel where the sticking stopped. Anybody know anything different? Will that open the valves enough?

Does this fit with the bogging problems I've described? How may floats would have to stick?

When doing the other carbs, I'll check for them sticking and adjust them the same. Also will use 600 grit sandpaper to 'polish' the carb bowl where any rubbing might occur.

Steve

P.S. When removing the carbs, found no water or debris in the bowls. Not going to change out the floats, needle valves or idle screws at this time. The existing parts look good as new with no obvious wear. At least as good as the older parts I have. I will change out the fuel pumps with some older spares. I took apart the existing ones and found no problems at all. Will keep as back-ups. Confident both sets are good.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

You can polish the inside of where the needle goes into. Likely varnished up. Inspect the needles too, no damage, moves freely in the bores..

A Q-tip (ear cleaner), installed in a drill motor, with metal polish on the tip will get it nice and clean (put in the bore and polish her up..

The float itself shouldn't (and almost always does NOT hang up on the bowl) however the droop should be set per spec's.

Couple suggestions, put the float and hold under some water and make sure it doesn't leak (or you don't hear any fluid inside).

If you have a "Mighty Vac", install the float, and hook up to the fuel inlet of that side. You should be able to pull a vacuum with the carb upside down(floats closed, no fuel). Obviously, when flipped back over, the float should drop easily..

Lastly, make sure that PAPER BOWL GASKET is NOT causing anything to hang up. It's very easy, if not paying close attention for the paper to jam with the float function. (ie check with bowl off, gasket ON carb body)


And yes, a float sticking open or closed will either lean out or flood the engine



.

[dilb1229]

Motor is now running great!
Appears that all along it was the float travel being too much and causing (at least some) of the floats to stick with the needle valves wide open, flooding the engine. Running better than it has in several years leads me to suspect that at least one float has been sticking for quite some time.
Float level was set to 5/8 inch (per spec), then the float travel was reset to 3/8 inch (and maybe a hair less). Anything more and a float would stick when carburetor was shaken. (Apparently with too much travel, float dropped enough to touch something in the bowl and would bind up.) Anything less and I was afraid of not opening the needle valve enough.
Just wish I had noticed this sooner and saved myself about $75 - $100 in various parts and supplies as well as time spent cleaning the carbs two more times than necessary, crawling around vacuum testing the fuel line in 5 places, testing fuel pumps, compression testing, etc. All in all though, if that was the fix, time and money well spent. Plus, I can now remove or replace the carbs and fuel pumps in 20 minutes or less.
Hope this helps someone else with similar problem.

Steve

[99yam40]

good to hear all is well.
thanks for reporting back the fix

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Excellent and as above, thanks for the update!