Replacing starter solenoid.

[paddlewave]

So, does this look right?Final Pic.jpg

[TownsendsFJR1300]

That line (likely aftermarket-OR repaired), with the BLUE CRIMP, where does that go (besides currently attached to the solenoid)?

[pstephens46]

Townsend mentioned the blue crimp. After you get it straightened out you may want to replace that crimp. With a good heat shrink version. And possibly a heat shrink sleeve on top of that. Much more corrosion resistant.

[99yam40]

So, does this look right?

I would think all the red wires would land on the same place.
and you did not answer my question

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I may be wrong but there should be a positive (red line) to one terminal of the solenoid (hot all the time).

The other terminal, has a line to the STARTER. That would ONLY be HOT when the key is activated (cranking) (by one of the smaller wires-ignition switch).

I'd test the smaller wire to see if that gets 12 volts when in the "crank" position (telling the starter to spin over).

[paddlewave]

Yes. I tilted the motor up placed the bracket down. Pressed tilt down and the fuse blew. And kept blowing. Went through five fuses, before I ordered the new solenoid.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Yes. I tilted the motor up placed the bracket down. Pressed tilt down and the fuse blew. And kept blowing. Went through five fuses, before I ordered the new solenoid.

Now your getting somewhere.

The T&T unit will have an up terminal and down terminal, with one wire on each. (Disconnect the down line and the fuse WON'T blow).

**Start tracing the "down terminal line" backwards(away from the terminal.

it's got a dead short somewhere, hot when activated(down), GROUNDING.

IE, it's grounding directly to the block (or other negative) once you push the down button, blowing the fuse.