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My O/B may (or may not) start on the single dedicated battery. If it does start, it will idle for about one minute then die. Switching to the dual battery, it starts and runs fine. Two new batteries installed last week and it makes no difference to this issue. Yesterday, while at 3500 rpm, I switched back to the single battery and it ran fine all the way back to the trailer, including 5 minutes of idle time. In a car, once the engine is running, the alternator will keep it going but this was not the case for me while in idle. I would appreciate an idea on where to start looking.
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intermittently bad contact within the switch, or with battery #1 cables/terminals ? -
The electrical generation system of your model does not have much electrical output when the motor is running at considerable RPM. Even less at idle. It uses what is referred to as a permanent magnet generator. Current produced is a function of the speed of the motor. Not at all like an alternator in your car that can produce lots of electrical power even at idle.
At idle the motor may be depending upon battery power for it to run. If the battery can't supply that power then motor may falter or die.
Seems that you have a battery switch. A failing connection in the battery switch can prevent the flow of electrical power from the one battery when the switch is in the number one position. Temporarily bypass the switch and see what happens.Comment
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or drill the rivets out of the battery switch -
and make sure the inside doesn't look like this:
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Some motors do not like it when the battery is disconnected while running, may cause problems with you electrical system.
make sure you do not switch battery switch while running, and make sure all of the connections a tight before starting and runningComment
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Thank you to all. I was reasonably sure that low RPM on the engine was not going to charge the battery. I have experienced that on my small Honda O/B (different boat).
I will follow the approach listed to confirm charging of the batteries and the integrity of the battery switch. I also have a Blue Sea SI-ACR (7610) automatic charging relay in the system and have just received from the manufacturer a test procedure for testing that unit
I have now moved from frustrated back in to the hopeful arena and my thanks to you all.Comment
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Just curious, does your dash gauges show the charging current-RUNNING (or even battery charge with engine off, key ON)?Scott
1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXRComment
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No,
I don't have gauges to provide that information.Comment
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Thanks.......Originally posted by BobbyT59 View PostScott
1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXRComment
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He must have analog guagesComment
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that engine will output more than enough to run the motor and charge the battery at idle.
the engine draws somewhere around 8 amps at idle.
not that much.
it will alarm for low voltage if it gets a chance.
myself I would look for the issue with that battery/cables/switchComment
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So I took my multimeter and ran some tests....
First let me say that my battery switch is not like the one shown by Fairdeal. It has OFF, Battery 1 and BOTH. They is no option for Battery 2 only
Before doing anything, the battery voltage at each battery was 12.84 and 12.85, respectively. These are new batteries and the hydrometer readings are good.
I switched to Battery 1 (what I have always done in the past) and tried to start the motor - just a click, no engine turning over.
I switched to BOTH batteries and the engine fired right up. With the engine running, I took several readings (in the order as presented):
In the BOTH position; #1 @12.85V, #2 @14.09
In the Battery #1 position; #1 @14.05V, #2 @ 13.26V
In the BOTH position; #1 @14.1V, #2 @14.01V
In the Battery #1 position; #1 @14.04V, #2 @ 13.27V
In the BOTH position; #1 @14.1V, #2 @14.03V
In the Battery #1 position; #1 @14.16V, #2 @ 13.3V
Correct me if I'm wrong but what I get from this is that the system is charging just fine, to both batteries, and that my battery switch is not making a good connection in the Battery 1 positionComment
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"Correct me if I'm wrong but what I get from this is that the system is charging just fine, to both batteries, and that my battery switch is not making a good connection in the Battery 1 position"
Sure looks like it to me.
I don't think I have seen a battery switch with just an off, one or both position, without also having a two position. Can you post up a photo of the front of yours? What brand?
Last thing I would do if way offshore and the motor won't start on battery one is to turn to the both position. I would want a number two position. Only if one separately or two separately would not crank the motor would I turn to the both position.Comment
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I agree looks like battery switch does not make a good connection sometimes
If one battery goes bad, I would want a position on switch that would not tie the dead battery to the good oneComment
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Please see the attachment for a jpeg picture of the battery switch made by Blue Sea SystemsComment
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