Yamaha F40 issues (idle and neutral)

[Rebelyelp]

2005 Yamaha F40 4 stroke, carb.

Issue A: Before today, when you came back to neutral the engine would make a clicking sound (almost as if it wasn't fully in neutral or some gear adjustment was out). If you tapped the throttle on the remote backward it would stop. Again, seemingly as if it's slightly out of whack / not coming back far enough. Any ideas here? Is there some time of linkage adjustment ? I replaced the plate lock (p/n 703-48245-00-00) in the 703 remote last year after the original broke (long story, big limb fell out of tree while running in flooded backwater). As I recall, the "clicking" when going into neutral however existed before I replaced this part.

Issue B: Just started today. Got the boat out for the first time in a month or so. Boat cranked fine and idled fine (slightly rough at the beginning, but I attributed to new prop I added yesterday). At any rate, the boat idles fine, however, once you increase RPM's (forward or reverse), then come back towards neutral, the RPM's stay higher than normal. They don't seem to be following the throttle back down. If you let it rest in gear right before crossing into neutral, it will eventually idle down to the normal range. It SEEMS as if something is just sluggish to move, but eventually corrects itself, I'm just not sure where to begin to clean/lubricate. Again, the boat has set up off and on over the winter, and has had limited use this spring. Any ideas?

[99yam40]

take the cables lose and move the throttles by hand to see what is binding up.

make sure cables are adjusted properly when put back on.
shift shaft and/or other parts in lower unit may be bent/twisted causing a problem with dogs in lower unit not aligning up as they should

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Re the higher idle, do you use any fuel stabilizer, ethanol fuel?

It sounds like the fuel went bad and is varnishing up the idle jets. (Not fully clogged yet).
That leans out the lower RPM range and the idle tends to take a long time to come down.

As you caught it fairly early, you may get by with a shock treatment of Yamaha's RingFree (2 oz / 1 gallon). IMO, a 50/50 shot at working for you: https://www.shopyamaha.com/product/d...?b=Search&d=34

If that doesn't work, a carb cleaning is very likely due..


To add to 99Yam' post, agreed, it sounds like the shifter shaft is "off". You didn't happen to have the lower unit off for service and the issue started AFTER that?

The clicking in "neutral", is often the linkage being off at the LU. Your pulling back slightly into reverse to stop it CONFIRMS that..


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[Rebelyelp]

Thanks for the responses guys !

99yam, Take the cables loose from the remote end or the engine end ?


Townsends, yes on the fuel stabilizer, and unfortunately it's possible on the ethanol. Sometimes it's our only option (or only convenient option, i know, i know). Used Sta-bil marine in it as recommended, and yes, I definitely think i'm due a Carb cleaning, Also have what i've determined to be an acceleration jet/pump issue but was trying to get through a trip this weekend before taking down the carb or taking to a dealer (unfortunately, none of our "close" dealers have a great reputation). No on me having the lower unit off, the previous owner may have however. What's the fix for it being "off" ?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

To check cables, disconnect them at the engine.

Put your throttle (at the helm) in neutral. Shift the engine into neutral, (there's often a mark on the slide where neutral is ((that lines up)).

With the slide in the proper position, spinning the prop should NOT make
ANY clicking.

**With Both in neutral, the shifter cable should slid over the pin at the engine EASILY. if it does not, adjust it in or out till it does.


*IF, when the shifter, at the engine(cables disconnected), still clicks, as noted previously, a shifter shaft may be bent, rusty, deeper inspection is needed..


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[Rebelyelp]

Thanks !

took it off, lengthened it and it slid straight on and seems to be working flawlessly now giong in and out of gear.

On the high idle issue, there was a "plunger" at the bottom of the carb linkage that was "sluggish" sliding out after decreasing throttle. I noticed a slight amount of discoloration on it, cleaned it, and it appears to be working normally now/idling how it's supposed to, at least in a drum. Will take it out this weekend to double check.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

took it off, lengthened it and it slid straight on and seems to be working flawlessly now giong in and out of gear.

On the high idle issue, there was a "plunger" at the bottom of the carb linkage that was "sluggish" sliding out after decreasing throttle. I noticed a slight amount of discoloration on it, cleaned it, and it appears to be working normally now/idling how it's supposed to, at least in a drum. Will take it out this weekend to double check.

Excellent, you got lucky!

Probably good too with the carb if the rev's drop normally in the drum..