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Started a new thread for this issue, although I'm sure it's related to this:
http://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/f...l-th28442.html
I'm novice at best when it comes to electronics, learning more as more hiccups occur. Like this one. Y'all regulars on the forum can recall that I was able to get the new fuel gauge working. Yes, but I was testing the gauge using one battery, not having setup all the wiring and terminal locations. Be that as it may, let's start from scratch as if I've yet to get the fuel gauge/fuel sender to communicate.
For the record, because I know you'll ask...all 3 batteries are fully charged and verified, 12.7v. The terminal block is receiving 12.7v and its ground is good (the 3 switch rocker panel works). The tach harness is receiving 12.7v.
The schematic I've drawn here shows exactly which battery is powering/grounding what. The only electronic panel I didn't add to the schematic is a 3 rocker switch accessory panel. This panel is solely powered and grounded by the #2 battery (via the terminal block). All accessories tied into this rocker panel work (nav lights, baitwell, etc).
Ok, so once I closed up the fuel tank hatch, sealed it, worked on distributing wires to their proper location, etc. Turn the key ON, fuel gauge is not working. The fuel gauge is powered via the tach harness pigtail (yellow) and it is grounded to the (-) terminal block, which is grounded to the #2 battery.
So I used jumper wires to test a few things:
*With the sender wire attached to the gauge, I removed the sender ground from the (-) terminal block. I grounded the sender ground wire to the #3 negative battery terminal. Results:
Key ON- no fuel needle movement
Key OFF- needle pinned below Empty
*With the sender wire attached to the gauge, I removed the sender ground from the (-) terminal block. I grounded the sender ground wire to the #1 negative battery terminal. Results:
Key ON- needle pinned above Full
Key OFF- no needle movement
*With the sender wire attached to the gauge, I removed the sender ground wire from terminal, bypassing it and directly connecting it to #2 negative battery terminal. Results:
Key ON- no needle movement
Key OFF- no needle movement
I'm not sure if this makes a difference, but I'll mention it just in case. As you'll see in the schematic the fuel gauge receives power from #1 battery (via tach harness) and ground from #2 battery (via terminal block). So the fuel gauge is powered and grounded by two different batteries. Maybe this is the issue?
Too be honest I feel like I've made this into a bird's nest...grounded here, there, try it on this one, sender wire off, on...ugh
It's a fuel gauge/fuel sender...two wires. This shouldn't be so difficult. And yet I've done something wrong here. So any help is greatly appreciated.
Terminal block circled in white
http://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/f...l-th28442.html
I'm novice at best when it comes to electronics, learning more as more hiccups occur. Like this one. Y'all regulars on the forum can recall that I was able to get the new fuel gauge working. Yes, but I was testing the gauge using one battery, not having setup all the wiring and terminal locations. Be that as it may, let's start from scratch as if I've yet to get the fuel gauge/fuel sender to communicate.
For the record, because I know you'll ask...all 3 batteries are fully charged and verified, 12.7v. The terminal block is receiving 12.7v and its ground is good (the 3 switch rocker panel works). The tach harness is receiving 12.7v.
The schematic I've drawn here shows exactly which battery is powering/grounding what. The only electronic panel I didn't add to the schematic is a 3 rocker switch accessory panel. This panel is solely powered and grounded by the #2 battery (via the terminal block). All accessories tied into this rocker panel work (nav lights, baitwell, etc).
Ok, so once I closed up the fuel tank hatch, sealed it, worked on distributing wires to their proper location, etc. Turn the key ON, fuel gauge is not working. The fuel gauge is powered via the tach harness pigtail (yellow) and it is grounded to the (-) terminal block, which is grounded to the #2 battery.
So I used jumper wires to test a few things:
*With the sender wire attached to the gauge, I removed the sender ground from the (-) terminal block. I grounded the sender ground wire to the #3 negative battery terminal. Results:
Key ON- no fuel needle movement
Key OFF- needle pinned below Empty
*With the sender wire attached to the gauge, I removed the sender ground from the (-) terminal block. I grounded the sender ground wire to the #1 negative battery terminal. Results:
Key ON- needle pinned above Full
Key OFF- no needle movement
*With the sender wire attached to the gauge, I removed the sender ground wire from terminal, bypassing it and directly connecting it to #2 negative battery terminal. Results:
Key ON- no needle movement
Key OFF- no needle movement
I'm not sure if this makes a difference, but I'll mention it just in case. As you'll see in the schematic the fuel gauge receives power from #1 battery (via tach harness) and ground from #2 battery (via terminal block). So the fuel gauge is powered and grounded by two different batteries. Maybe this is the issue?
Too be honest I feel like I've made this into a bird's nest...grounded here, there, try it on this one, sender wire off, on...ugh
It's a fuel gauge/fuel sender...two wires. This shouldn't be so difficult. And yet I've done something wrong here. So any help is greatly appreciated.
Terminal block circled in white