Replace tank, do it right and do it once, patches of epoxies and stuff like that are just buying time.
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It's an aluminum tank. Get the unit out and examine the rest of it as well...
As nasty as the top looks, that aluminum is really thin.
Depending on how the rest looks, at a minimum I'd either be replacing the entire TOP section or the entire tank..
I would NOT be taking any shortcuts with this, your literally standing above a potential bomb..
I gather you'll likely need a company that specializes in tank repair, sales...Scott
1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR
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Originally posted by CaptSoloFind a good tank man and let him do the job.
Big $5000 job putting in and taking out that tank and replacing with a new one. You need special tools and saws.
That Al tank is 1/4 inch thick. You'll likely destroy it taking it out and need to buy a new one.Jason
1998 S115TLRW + 1976 Aquasport 170
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Originally posted by TownsendsFJR1300 View PostIt's an aluminum tank. Get the unit out and examine the rest of it as well...
As nasty as the top looks, that aluminum is really thin.
Depending on how the rest looks, at a minimum I'd either be replacing the entire TOP section or the entire tank..
I would NOT be taking any shortcuts with this, your literally standing above a potential bomb..
Here's the fuel sender. You can see how warped the gasket is. No doubt fuel was spewing from here.
Jason
1998 S115TLRW + 1976 Aquasport 170
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Originally posted by boscoe99 View PostThe future is in plastics.
Have these poly tanks been in service long enough to determine their long term durability?Jason
1998 S115TLRW + 1976 Aquasport 170
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First: Home - Tampa, FL - CL Mattson & Company, Inc Near you!
That corrosion is from water / condensation sitting atop the tank in a nice
closed environment that doesn't let it evaporate.
My neighbors old Mako had a similar issue right near the filler, (on the tank). His tank was foamed up top too which helped hold in moisture and his leak was very obvious, discolored foam. As his was very limited, he put some sheet metal screws in the holes, then epoxied them. No issues after that..
I noticed, years back (and my tanks a year older than yours) of a wet dust atop my tank (looking thru the access hole in the deck). There were a couple of spots (no where near yours, maybe 1/4 of yours, size wise) of white corrosion ATOP, (like yours), very small but obvious (not leaking).
My tank DOES have maybe 2" between it and the deck cover(ie air flow). I snuck a clean rag in there with a 3' wood yard stick and got rid of all wet "dust". The couple white spots, I cleaned best as possible and snuck a small paint brush with acrylic (not water based) paint and painted over those spots... Stopped any further corrosion.Last edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 04-29-2017, 07:49 PM.Scott
1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR
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Originally posted by Jason2tpa View PostI know those poly tanks have become popular lately. I don't know anything about them. I'll have to read up.
Have these poly tanks been in service long enough to determine their long term durability?
You did get 19 years out of this one, so really not too bad...Scott
1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR
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Originally posted by TownsendsFJR1300 View PostFirst: Home - Tampa, FL - CL Mattson & Company, Inc Near you!
That corrosion is from water / condensation sitting atop the tank in a nice
closed environment that doesn't let it evaporate.
My neighbors old Mako had a similar issue right near the filler, (on the tank). His tank was foamed up top too which helped hold in moisture and his leak was very obvious, discolored foam. As his was very limited, he put some sheet metal screws in the holes, then epoxied them. No issues after that..You did get 19 years out of this one, so really not too bad...Last edited by Jason2tpa; 04-29-2017, 08:02 PM.Jason
1998 S115TLRW + 1976 Aquasport 170
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Originally posted by Jason2tpa View PostI know those poly tanks have become popular lately. I don't know anything about them. I'll have to read up.
Have these poly tanks been in service long enough to determine their long term durability?
The plastic surely seems to outlive aluminum, particularly in a salt water environment.
Permanent Fuel Tanks | Moeller Marine
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Originally posted by Jason2tpa View PostI'll check out your tank business recommendation, thks. Have you ever pressure tested a tank? Wondering what's the common method to seal off the 3 fittings and 1 big sender hole.
Re pressure testing, put the sender back in the hole and close off all other holes with a rag/ plastic -milk jug, duct tape, but leave a small opening for an air compressor fitting.
You don't need 100 PSI, (it sure would show ALL LEAKS THOU!), but put positive air pressure in it, spray with windex, / soapy water and look for bubbles (just like a tire tube with a slow leak).
I'd hit the top of that tank with a large wire brush to knock ALL that corrosion away (which can hamper your hunt for leaks)
You can (as it needs repair anyway), put sheet metal screws in each hole as you go along till you have no more bubbles...
A 4' x 10' sheet of aluminum, 1/8", was just over $100 (last time I bought a sheet) so the material isn't that bad $ wise. It's the welding that'll get ya..
.Scott
1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR
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Originally posted by boscoe99 View PostI had a 100 gallon plastic tank in my 1998 Aquasport. Nary a problem with it. I am pretty sure that the technology has been advanced since that time. It was made by Moeller.
The plastic surely seems to outlive aluminum, particularly in a salt water environment.
Permanent Fuel Tanks | Moeller Marine
29 Gallon Permanent Below Deck Boat Fuel Tank |Scott
1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR
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Originally posted by Jason2tpa View PostI know those poly tanks have become popular lately. I don't know anything about them. I'll have to read up.
Have these poly tanks been in service long enough to determine their long term durability?
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