Trim motor brush holder replacement (1989 200)

[BQUICK]

Done!
Just for reference it can be done in place. Motor runs like new. Cleaned commutator and blew out a bunch of crap. Installed brush assembly and new o-ring.
It wasn't meant to be done in situ but with some grinding of the bracket the long bolts and cap can be removed. Easier than pulling the boat, pulling engine to get to back motor bolt, dealing with broken bolts, bleeding air out, etc.

[panasonic]

How about a picture of what and where you ground? How much did you grind away?

[boscoe99]

How about a picture of what and where you ground? How much did you grind away?

Nothing like grinding on a bit of a structural component.

If you come across a landing gear that is being difficult to reassemble just take the old die grinder to the offending metal. It will be better than new.

Now I would not be signing my name to any logbook however. Let's just keep that repair to ourselves.

[BQUICK]

Calm down, not much was removed. BTW failure point was lead grommet. Water coming in there.

[scofflaw]

dramatizing this a bit... You don't need to pull the engine or bleed off a bunch of air etc. And that's a big ole bolt to break... Simple job really. That grommet was where mine leaked water as well.

[BQUICK]

Tell me how you get to that back bolt on the trim motor without pulling motor off boat or removing/loosening port side bracket? Also my tilt pin is seized so not easy to pull entire trim unit.

[scofflaw]

Tell me how you get to that back bolt on the trim motor without pulling motor off boat or removing/loosening port side bracket? Also my tilt pin is seized so not easy to pull entire trim unit.

Just did a 94 txrs and a 2001 txrz. Both whistled right out of there with the motor pegged up high. I guess I can't comment on a 89. Tilt pin has plastic bushings ....no ? Did on the 2 years I mentioned. Glad it worked out for you.

[BQUICK]

I guess they used some common sense on later motors.
Bushing is OK it's the non-stainless pin that is seized into the aluminum. Last one I did that looked like that I had to sawsall it out.

Hey, I'm happy and wanted to give people another option to keep their junk going....

[pstephens46]

Suggested in service manual to use grease on the pins. Nobody does that until the unit quits working and has to be removed. Could be 25 years old by then.

[BQUICK]

Later models used stainless as is replacement pin which can sill get seized since stainless isn't totally fond of aluminum.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Glad it's fixed!!

[panasonic]

Calm down, not much was removed. BTW failure point was lead grommet. Water coming in there.

I was just wondering for anybody reading this thread in the future. I would do the same after sizing it up and if it was only a small bit to take off. Especially on an old engine.

[panasonic]

Nothing like grinding on a bit of a structural component.

If you come across a landing gear that is being difficult to reassemble just take the old die grinder to the offending metal. It will be better than new.

Now I would not be signing my name to any logbook however. Let's just keep that repair to ourselves.

Now you would be surprized how much can be removed from a structural component ...such as landing gears. Its not done willy nilly now either, must be an approved repair by the manufacturer...but there is grinding, sanding and polishing involved sometimes. Very detailed process.

The general rule of thumb is you can remove 10% the thickness of a component and it will most likely be approved.

So say you have a trunnion fitting and it has some damage and/or corrosion and it is 0.500" thick at the damage area.. You will most likely be able to remove 0.050" of material in a certain way (machine, grind, sand..) and it will be approved to remain in service.

Sometimes its very little other times its way more then you would ever think.

They got real engineers to figure that stuff out....