89 200 no water in port head

[BQUICK]

It's a Florida motor so it's junk anyway as far as the block.
Trying to get one last season out of it.
I'm open to any creative ideas. One I had was using the telltale to feed the port head. Telltale is really just wasted cooling water coming out starboard head. Also, removing thermostats.
Kinda like a test/experiment for the hell of it.
If it comes to it I will grease or pull out the heat sensor and just run her out....can make it home on the other engine if I have to.

[BQUICK]

Barnacle Buster! Tilted motor turned to side so overheating head was level and poured the stuff into tstat housing ports, waited 6hrs. Fired it up and a lot of crap was visible in water a cloud in fact.
Ran it and no more over heat.

One thing I notice is that one engine pees for 45sec AFTER shutting off and the offending motor does not. Any idea why? New pressure relief on the one that doesn't.....

[Z-man228]

I Successfully did the rydlyme treatment on my 1988 150's a few years ago. Same problem with overheating at 4000 RPM. My thread is on the forum somewhere. I haven't had an overheat problem since. I will see if I can find my old thread and post the link

[Z-man228]

Here is part of the link with how I cleaned out my motors

here is what I did.
1) Pulled Lower units, t-stats, and PRV's. reinstalled T-stat and PRV covers...no guts
2) mixed 2 gallons of Rydlyme with 2 gallons of water in a small tub that would fit under midsection and was big enough to catch the solution coming from the midsection (pics above)
3) bought a garden/fountain pump for harbor freight for $35 that ran off 120V and hooked 3/4 hose to it and hose clamped the other end to the pick up tube for the impeller housing in the midsection. also hooked small hose to tell tale pisser and ran it back to the tub. Bilge pump would work too if you want zto run off a battery.
4) Submerged the pump into the solution and plugged it in.
5) I let the solution run 3 hours on the first motor non stop. I then moved tub over to the other motor, added a 3rd gallon of Rydlyme (no more water) and repeated the process on the second motor. While the second motor was going I rigged a hose to the pick up in the midsection with my water hose and flushed the first motor for 10-15 minutes with clean water. At the end of 3 hours I disconnected the second motor and flushed with clean water same as the first.
6) reinstalled lowers, new t-stats, PRV grommet and spring and new gaskets for everything.
7) ran it to the lake and checked it out for leaks around new gaskets, once satisfisfied everything was tight and ran it up and no more over heat
If youneed the Rydlyme, the company gave me the number for A beam marine in Ft Lauderdale. The guy I spoke with is Ray Vaughn 800-774-3162. I ordered on Monday morning and had it tues at noon via Fedex.

Only negative I have heard is people worried about zincs behind the heads. My problem was I didn't want to pull heads on a 26 year old saltwater motor for fear of breaking bolts and really being screwed at that point. On another forum a guy put a zinc in the Rydlyme solution and it did very little to the zinc. Also the zinc is likely to be covered with the same calcium/scale as the water jackets so the Rydlyme may be cleaning it off as well. time will tell.

[BQUICK]

Scott, the "fixed" motor is the one that as soon as I stop it no water out the pee hole. Not clogged.

Or maybe that is normal and my other motor that pees for 30 sec is not normal.\

Yes, JB holding.

The thing about pouring and soaking is that it is easy. I might do another treatment on that head that I can't get off due to broken bolts.

[BQUICK]

Pumps like crazy as soon as it starts. I'm talking about after shutting off.

I'm thinking exhaust cover perforated. That's where all that water drains from since the pee hole is at bottom of it.

[BQUICK]

Well, I know I'm not pulling exhaust cover .....lots of bolts to break. But I guess I could try a few in accessible places...but those are usually not the ones that break. Last one I tried 3 of 5 bolts broke (on a parts motor)

[BQUICK]

So saga continues....overheating again.
I can run 4000 for about a mile with stats in before alarm. 3 times that with them out. Also, oddly I had overheat at LOW speed for first time yesterday. Maybe debris in poppit vlave? Only happened once.

Next I'm going to put a adjustable valve on the telltale hose since holding my finger over outlet causing increase in water pressure from 7 to 12 psi at idle. Maybe that will give me enough flow to cool port head.
Yesterday heat gun showed port head 215 and starboard 127 when shut down after overheat.

BTW after the Barnacle Buster I am getting water flow out tstat area now with tstat cover off so kinda surprised it's overheating again.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

So saga continues....overheating again.
I can run 4000 for about a mile with stats in before alarm. 3 times that with them out. Also, oddly I had overheat at LOW speed for first time yesterday. Maybe debris in poppit vlave? Only happened once.

Next I'm going to put a adjustable valve on the telltale hose since holding my finger over outlet causing increase in water pressure from 7 to 12 psi at idle. Maybe that will give me enough flow to cool port head.
Yesterday heat gun showed port head 215 and starboard 127 when shut down after overheat. .

I'd just remove the telltale hose hose inside the cowling and plug it up with a bolt / un-threaded rod, etc.

The 215 and 127 degrees' posted above, that's AFTER turning off the engine?

I'd rather know the #'s at the time (running) of the overheat.

[BQUICK]

Kinda hard to do by myself.....

Seems like a lot of good cooling water goes right out the telltale which is right after it enters the block. Idea of valve was so I could still see some telltale at the same time restricting it to get more flow thru the block. That's why telltale it always cool....it hasn't done any cooling yet where it's located.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Shouldn't be hard at all to point the lazer at each similar cylinder(un-less I'm missing something.

As noted, you have a new WP, etc. With the issues you have, I would rather have that excess water in the "hot" or problem area as your just trying to squeeze one more year out of it..

You can only look back at the telltale so much when underway.

Just my 2ct's

[zenoahphobic]

Good point about the tell tale stream. It only comes off the one bank and it wastes good pressurised water before adequately used for cooling.

Could never understand why that design, and as noted, who looks at the stream when underway on the plane? Often at speed boat spray obscures this water jet.
I wonder if we added a tube to this tell tale and routed this under the bulkhead and placed an outlet out of the gunnel somewhere near the pilot, would be of help? Just like a JetSki.

One could monitor this easier, temp and pressure gauges would be easier to install if you wish; and even one could simply reach with a hand to feel the temp or even restrict the flow at an over temperature alarm to see if it goes off.

Not much help to solving the OP's problem, but food for thought as a better use of this feature for preventative or diagnostic purposes.

[BQUICK]

Top cylinder portside is hottest each time i've checked. I shut off run back pull cowl and check right away.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Top cylinder portside is hottest each time i've checked. I shut off run back pull cowl and check right away.

Well, IME, that kinda takes away the "salt build up" in the cylinder passages as most build up (again IME), happens in the lower cylinder passages... And you already know your not getting much water at that end...

Did you check the PCV to see if it's stuck open? (I'm not sure that would even cause the issue) but your about out of things to check-unless there's another leak somewhere..

The PCV is easy enough to check, same size bolts as the thermostat..
I'd rule that in or out-might get lucky.

[BQUICK]

Yeah, I checked it again. New style clear, not stuck.

Why would top cylinder run hotter? Hmm, just had a thought maybe no oil or less oil due to cracked oil line for that cylinder since separate oil lines on each cylinder.