Originally posted by 99yam40
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2004 F200 submerged briefly in fresh water
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Unfortunately, there's no one best answer here for you. 2 minutes of submersion can cause massive issues, or 2 hours of submersion could cause very few. Best thing you can do is to run it. Check connections, clean them, protect them. I wouldn't change any item right away, but I would keep a spare fuel/water separator (or two) on board. In my opinion... just get out there and go boating. Stay close/nearby for a while until you gain a comfort level with it.2000 Yamaha OX66 250HP SX250TXRY 61AX103847T
1982 Grady Weekender/Offshore (removed stern drive & modded to be an OB)
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Originally posted by ausnoelm View PostJesus, did you miss your medication today? and people wonder why forums just die.
Maybe responses like yours is what kills forums.
at least you could try to answer some of his questions
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Originally posted by 99yam40 View PostLets see, OP asked some questions and you did not answer any of them. You just tell him he takes his chances buying a rig that sunk.
Maybe responses like yours is what kills forums.
at least you could try to answer some of his questions
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Sea water and electronics
I imagine there are many a boater that do not remove the cowling and wash the powerhead and electronics regularly. And that is probably one of the best things that you can do. All of this stuff can get wet. So a brief submersion at a shallow depth would not deter me, especially in fresh water.
If you ever have an engine submerged, leave it submerged if possible or practical. That is until you have the time to rise it, maybe even soak it, and then get it running as soon as possible. And run it long and warm.
If I had one sink at the salt dock static, I would get it out and rinse it off. Then I may even submerge it in a volume of fresh water with the cowl removed. Thow it in the pool. The wife will just love that...
Next pull the spark plugs, drain the fluids, blow off as much remaining moisture with shop air. Oil up the cylinder bores through the spark holes and pull/crank it through. Reinstall dry spark plugs. The same one will probably be fine. service the fluids with fresh, clean. and get it started and running as soon as possible. I would probably also spray WD-40 everywhere because, afterall, WD is abriviated for water displacing formula #40.
Unless it went deep for a long time, I not sure I would start opening the sealed electrical connectors.
Get it back on the boat if removed and then go for a long cruise to get the engine temperature up and cook off the moisture.
If it were a clean, fresh water, lake/river submersion, I would contemplate omitting the soak in the ex-wife's swimming pool.If its got teats or tires, you bound to have trouble with it....
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Besides running it, I would spray a HEAVY COAT of LPS2 all over the power-head, especially under the flywheel and all parts NOT normally under water..
That would stop any further potential corrosion, especially in the hard to reach spots...
Disconnecting connectors, inspecting, and applying dielectric grease to those connectors wouldn't hurt either..Scott
1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR
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X 2 on the miracle jizz and connectors. I routinely pull electrical connectors and zap them with elec parts cleaner then Die Grease.
Fluid Film is the bomb if you can find it. Pricey, but the stuff lasts forever once applied.
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...rds=fluid+film
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Originally posted by Jason2tpa View PostElaborate if you would on above in bold. Since time is relative only to ones own perception, brief could mean 1 minute, 1 hour or multiple days. Despite this being a freshwater submersion, luckily, your answer will have much to do with the probability of engine complications.
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