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I've been asked for details on what I used some months back to "make the ISC run" while removed from the motor.
Boscoe had posted a link to a video that showed doing it
(think it was youtube - but I just took a look there and couldn't find it)
as I understand it (Rodbolt can correct me if I got this wrong)
these are essentially "stepping motors"
they have a pair of windings (actually the one in the F225 has 3)
and by "pulsing" power to the coils, rather than run continuously, the motor rotates,
one way or the other, in "steps".
Just to see it run, you can connect it to low voltage AC - which then provides "pulses".
But to in order to rotate,
the power to one coil has to be applied as a different pulse than what the other is getting.
Putting a capacitor in series with one of the windings "shifts" it from what the other winding is getting
So:
1. use an ohmmeter or continuity tester to identify which contacts are the pairs for each winding
2. connect power directly to one pair (one winding)
3. connect power with the capacitor in series to another winding
Voila - the motor runs, drives the plunger up to its stop
(that clicking sound you hear when you turn off the engine)
here's what I used
an old AC wall wart (think it came out of a home security system panel)
It labeled as nominal 16.5 volts; I figured, given RMS, that was close enough to its usual "12 V DC"
a capacitor from Radio Shack (can't recall how I selected it - probably because it was the cheapest one they had)
upload picture
Boscoe had posted a link to a video that showed doing it
(think it was youtube - but I just took a look there and couldn't find it)
as I understand it (Rodbolt can correct me if I got this wrong)
these are essentially "stepping motors"
they have a pair of windings (actually the one in the F225 has 3)
and by "pulsing" power to the coils, rather than run continuously, the motor rotates,
one way or the other, in "steps".
Just to see it run, you can connect it to low voltage AC - which then provides "pulses".
But to in order to rotate,
the power to one coil has to be applied as a different pulse than what the other is getting.
Putting a capacitor in series with one of the windings "shifts" it from what the other winding is getting
So:
1. use an ohmmeter or continuity tester to identify which contacts are the pairs for each winding
2. connect power directly to one pair (one winding)
3. connect power with the capacitor in series to another winding
Voila - the motor runs, drives the plunger up to its stop
(that clicking sound you hear when you turn off the engine)
here's what I used
an old AC wall wart (think it came out of a home security system panel)
It labeled as nominal 16.5 volts; I figured, given RMS, that was close enough to its usual "12 V DC"
a capacitor from Radio Shack (can't recall how I selected it - probably because it was the cheapest one they had)
upload picture