1998 130 hard to start cold

[Chuck1234]

New to me 1998 130. Very hard to start first time. After that, starts just fine. Compression good. Fuel good. Fuel filter and lines good. Choke working properly. Advance working. Plugs and wires good. Fuel pump good. Guy I bought it from told me it was like this and he never figured out why. Something is preventing it from picking up fuel. Any ideas?

[boscoe99]

Need the complete model.

There is no such thing as a Yamaha 130. 1998 or any other year for that matter.

[Chuck1234]

1998 130 horsepower 2 stroke v-4. Saltwater series(written on cowling)

[boscoe99]

Nope. Not it.

For 1998 there were four models offered by Yamaha USA.

130TLRW
S130TLRW
S130TXRW
L130TXRW

[panasonic]

1998 130 horsepower 2 stroke v-4. Saltwater series(written on cowling)

There are several 130 HP models offered in 1998 according to:

http://yamahamc.partsandwarranty.com...1408555&Page=1

But as Boscoe99 said, you need to supply model identification information from ID tag on the mount bracket before anybody can try and help with your problem.

[Chuck1234]

Thanks for the patience guys. Maybe I have this straight :
Model no is S130 TLRV. 1997. Guy had replaced the power head with a power head from a 98 model, which is where the 1998 came from.

[boscoe99]

Excellent.

Your model motor has carburetors with choke plates. Plates that are activated by either (1) a manual pull-to-choke knob located atthe front of the motors' lower cowling or (2) an electric choke that is activated by pressing a key in on the key switch or pressing a toggle switch that might be located on the key switch panel.

Remove the cowling and maybe the intake box. Pull the choke knob. Do the choke plates close? They should.

Have someone press the key in or activate the choke toggle switch. Does the solenoid on the motor move? It will make a noise. Is the solenoid properly connected to the choke mechanism? It is held in place by a rubber O ring. That O ring is known to fail, in which case the solenoid won't activate the choke plates.

If the choke plates are closing are you putting the throttle handle in the proper position as specified in the owner's manual? Some motor want a bit of throttle. Others, no.

Good luck.

See illustrations below:

[boscoe99]

http://www.yamaha-motor.com/assets/s...-02-91_650.pdf

[Chuck1234]

Boscoe, thanks for the link. The choke is operating properly, both with the electric and manual control.
This is my start up procedure . Tilt motor down. Pump bulb until just firm. Advance neutral gas lever(verified that the advance mechanism is working). Choke. Hit starter for a couple of seconds.(does not crank any faster by grinding on the starter. Short bursts work better.) Repeat until motor cranks. You do not have to warm the engine after it starts. You can kill it immediately after cranking, and restart it by just "touching" the starter. Literally can not get off the starter fast enough.
The symptoms are the same as on a engine where the choke does not work. Also have small engines that have a primer bulb in place of a choke and when they get hard to start like this, it indicates pinhole/crack in bulb. Either way, carb is not picking up fuel.
Have not tried priming the carb by squirting gas mixture in carb. Will try this next time I get boat out. Still doesn't fix the problem though.

[99yam40]

are you sure the choke plates are closing completely?
getting close does not count.

and pump primer bulb until good and tight not just firm to make sure all carb bowls are filled

If hitting the switch for choke, do that while the starter is spinning the motor.

some of the older outboards had solenoids that squirted fuel into the carb throats/intake, these do not. so the motor needs to be turing over when you activate the choke

[boscoe99]

After pumping the primer ball until it is goodntite I would crank the motor with the throttle completely closed to see if it starts better or not. Some motors you just need to find the spot where it likes the throttle opening to be. Some like the throttle closed, some like it open a bit and some like it open a bit more.

Push the key in to close the choke, turn to the start position and let it crank for up to about five seconds time. She should light off. Hopefully she will. If it starts to stumble or die be prepared to push the key back in quickly.

Maybe try starting the motor with it trimmed up just a tad.

Do as 99 suggests and make sure the choke plates are closing fully. If the plates are not fully closed they won't be as effective as they will be if they are fully closed. Maybe a bit of linkage adjustment is needed.

[99yam40]

almost sounds like the carb bowls are not filled and the pump needs to pump fuel up to carbs before it starts, but that is if everything else is being done correctly

[Chuck1234]

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Choke closed".

[ausnoelm]

Hit starter for a couple of seconds.(does not crank any faster by grinding on the starter. Short bursts work better.) Repeat until motor cranks. You do not have to warm the engine after it starts. You can kill it immediately after cranking, and restart it by just "touching" the starter. Literally can not get off the starter fast enough.

Explain exactly what this means.

[99yam40]

I would think he means that you still have to crank on it for a long period of time before it will start finally.
still sounds like not getting the carb bowls full of fuel when he pumps the primer bulb till just firm
the chokes do look closed,
with those holes on plates on one carb, I wonder it opening the fast idle lever is a good idea or not. seems lots of air can get thru those holes already