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2002 F225 High Idle 1,200 RPM
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I didn't put in river today, but I put the lower unit in a bucket of water just slightly above the intake grate and also hooked up the hose attachment. I can't remember if it ever peed before, but it never heated up like it did with the muffs. the water pump was replaced in january according to the seller. I also saw that the mid exhaust piece was replaced.Last edited by gradytampa; 03-28-2017, 09:48 PM.
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I don't think the impeller was replaced in January. You see the molding marks on the rubber that extend from center outward? Two lines? On a new impeller they extend all the way to the tip. They wear away over time were it rubs against the steel cup . The lines on my impeller that I replaced recently were just barely noticeable on the tip. 240 hours of use.
Your impeller either ran hot or a lot longer than a January install.
I would replace using the kit. The wear plate is certainly older than that. Inspect inside of plastic housing for heat damage too.
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looks like that impeller has been run dry.
carefully inspect the housing for any signs of melting.
any melting scraps the housing.
most F225 motors will NOT pee on flush muffs and will overheat.
use muffs AND the onboard flush port or just the flush port.
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When running on the ear muffs I heard a hum noise from lower unit, as soon as I turned on the hose attached to the flush line noise went away, so I think the impeller was heating up. After taking the lower unit off I attached the hose directly to the water Inlet tube that attaches to the water pump to make sure there wasn't a blockage down-stream in the engine.
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update..
mechanic replaced the oil pressure sensor (which threw a code)and impeller/housing.No change, idle still high. He did a test on the icv and said was acting strange and not staying open. So i ordered a new aftermarket and replaced myself, but still did not fix the problem. If I disconnect the new icv and restart the engine it will run at 7-800 rpm. If i reconnect and restart engine it goes back to 1100 rpm. whats the next step? thermostats? I've already dropped $800 in parts and labor and not wanting to waste more money on a diagnosis. I know I should have gone through a master tech, but I went through a friends mechanic b/c I had used him before to survey a boat for me.
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Originally posted by gradytampa View Postthe mechanic said the impeller was crap aftermarket and that it melted through. the company I ordered the idle control valve said that have had zero problems and have not had one fail in the 3 years that they have been manufacturing. What tells the ICV to open and close?
what would you expect them to tell you when calling them?
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