Buy Yamaha Outboard Parts

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Impeller Change Problem

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Impeller Change Problem

    I have a 2008 Yamaha F40BTLR 4 stroke. I am trying to change the impeller and have removed the 4 bolts on the side, one bolt under the anode, and disconnected the gear shift. From my understanding the foot should be all disconnected and ready to pull out. But I am pulling and shaking with no luck. It will not come out.

    What am I missing???

    Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

  • #2
    drive shaft may be rusted into the crankshaft.
    when was the last time the lower was removed and did you clean and grease it when going back together?

    Comment


    • #3
      Good idea to sucure it some way so if/when it breaks loose it doesn't fall on ground....and if you're dead sure all the bolts are out, make some small wooden wedges to gently tap into the joint between the lower unit and mid- section....maybe 2 wedges on each side and tap them gently around allowing some time for them to work. How long since unit was off?....saltwater use?
      When you get it off clean the top splines with wire brush and apply thin coat of marine grease....Good Luck!

      Comment


      • #4
        If you are sure EVERYTHiNG in disconnected....

        Build up some wood supports as mentioned above so that you have an inch of clearance between bottom of skeg and wood....

        Remove prop!!!

        Straddle with your feet on the lower unit and put your full body weight on it. I assume you are an average size bloke? If you are 400lbs, find another body to do it. Hang on to your hat......

        Do remove prop first!!! Could be a nasty gash if your feet slip....
        Last edited by pstephens46; 03-26-2017, 04:56 AM.

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks for all the input. I will try the suggestions.

          The impeller was changed two years ago at a Yamaha dealer and the boat is used in salt water.

          From my understanding there are 4 bolts on the side, one bolt under the anode in the foot, one bolt holding the second anode, and the shift linkage. I sure can't find anything else holding it on.

          Eastbayboy

          Comment


          • #6
            Sounds like you have everything un-bolted...

            http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Ya...202/parts.html
            Scott
            1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

            Comment


            • #7
              You may have to take a cold chisel and tap between lower unit where it meets the motor housing.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Jfitz1949 View Post
                You may have to take a cold chisel and tap between lower unit where it meets the motor housing.
                There's a "mid section" before the motor meets the LU:

                2006 and Later F40BTLR Yamaha Outboard UPPER CASING Diagram and Parts
                Scott
                1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

                Comment


                • #9
                  Well, the LU is still stuck on. Looking at the diagrams and videos I have disconnected all I need to, 6 bolts and the gear shift linkage. I have tried jumping on the LU and wedges between the LU and midsection. The jumping initially separated the LU and mid section by about 1/4 inch. But continued efforts have not budged it from there. Hope things go better after lunch!!!

                  Eastbayboy

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Sounds like the driver shaft splines are rusted up.

                    You may try putting a scissor jack under the lower unit and Raise IT UP, then drop it again. Hopefully you can break loose whatever's holding it.

                    Some progress!
                    Scott
                    1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      My bet is placed on number 16.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Nope, 16 is out. You have 7 bolts highlight and 7 are out.

                        Since I do have 1/4 gap I raised the LU back into position and then dropped the LU again. No luck the first time, but I'm going to try that a few more times.

                        Eastbayboy
                        Last edited by Eastbayboy; 03-26-2017, 03:01 PM.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          if you can turn the motor over onto the power head, you might get some PB blaster or other stuff to run down the drive shaft to the joint to soak to see if that helps

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            16 simply holds the anode in place.
                            my bet is on the mid section steady bushing.
                            they are tight when new and need replacing every few years.
                            spray the drive shaft with PB blaster just under the powerhead soak it really good.
                            give it time to work down to the bushing.
                            then move it up and down.
                            you will most lily find once it starts down it will lock up again near the shaft splines.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I had no idea a small F40 had a bushing on the shaft.
                              thought that was only on the bigger motors.

                              hope the OP reads this soon and gets some lub on to it

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X