225HP wont start, guages dead, trim dead

[ollieamb]

Please read, (if you haven't already), the last couple pages of that link.

He chased his tail a bunch as testing was not accurate...

Same as you, his battery passed the LOAD TEST. Your voltage dropping substantially indicates a bad battery, bad cables/connections or bad starter.

Try attaching the "good" battery, direct to the yamaha cables or better yet, where the Yamaha stock cable attaches to the engine.

Then try cranking and monitor the voltage. If the battery is good, cables good, good connections, starter good it'll crank normally with minimal voltage drop.

These basic parts must be inspected/tested or bring it to a shop you know and trust.

Been down to have another go with it.

Battery direct to engine, all connections good, and does the same, fires the starter out but doesn't spin...it's even baffling the engineer I have looking at it.. it will be a good anchor at this rate

[ollieamb]

Been down to have another go with it.

Battery direct to engine, all connections good, and does the same, fires the starter out but doesn't spin...it's even baffling the engineer I have looking at it.. it will be a good anchor at this rate

[panasonic]

-Take a known good battery, not your boats battery, maybe from your car or a lorry.

-Get a set of KNOWN good automotive battery booster/jumper cables.

-Disconnect the battery cables from your boats battery system at the starter completely.

- connect volt meter as shown to see the voltage drop across the starter solenoid.

-Connect booster cables as shown and engine should turn over...or not.

Please report back if this worked or you have already tried it.

[ollieamb]

The starter was removed and tested in the workshop all ok.. before the relay was replaced there was no activity, since the new relay it now engages but won't spin.

It's only a Boston whaler so wires are clearly visible (easy access) one thing that we noticed last year was it became intermittent, 80% of the time it would go sometimes not but say the 4th turn of the key it would go, but now nothing.

[99yam40]

Did you use a good hand held volt meter to measure battery voltage while trying to start the motor?
seems you are refusing to do any testing of the system on the boat

[ollieamb]

Yes, as above it reads low when key held on (large drain) - but as explained when tested in the workshop today it passed a load test fine.

[99yam40]

Been down to have another go with it.

Battery direct to engine, all connections good, and does the same, fires the starter out but doesn't spin...it's even baffling the engineer I have looking at it.. it will be a good anchor at this rate

does the battery read 7 volts even when testing battery direct to starter?
even now that the starter will not spin?
sounded like you may not be checking the voltage on the battery terminals or may not be taking any voltage reading while doing these tests.

also may be that you are not energizing the starter properly or the solenoid has bad contacts inside it.
Even the other thread I told you to go read had problems because the way he was testing and/or his jumper cables were no good and could not carry the load.
but if you battery drops that far I would recommend trying a different battery ,just like others have said already

[ollieamb]

Took 3 different batteries to the boat, several different leads all with the same result, pops the starter out and no spin. I've connected it direct to the starter also and still just pops...

Had starter in pieces and like new, I've tested the continuity and resistance and all good.. polished all terminals connections etc...

The only thing I've not had to prices is the 702 control box, which is only 12months old! I've checked and cleaned all the connections externally just not internally..

Any clues?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Took 3 different batteries to the boat, several different leads all with the same result, pops the starter out and no spin. I've connected it direct to the starter also and still just pops...

Had starter in pieces and like new, I've tested the continuity and resistance and all good.. polished all terminals connections etc...

The only thing I've not had to prices is the 702 control box, which is only 12months old! I've checked and cleaned all the connections externally just not internally..

Any clues?

I would strongly suggest you bring the starter to the starter repair shop.

Respectfully, your missing something in your testing. If all is passing the tests, it would work. It's not working, thus something is amiss that unfortunately you may be missing.

A passed bench test would spin and pop out the gear. Yours (obviously) isn't.

Should it work at the shop, you can NOW rule that out and bolt it back up...

Very likely a whole bunch cheaper than a brand new starter, especially if it's something inexpensive.

My 2cts.. Good luck

https://vid.me/JvKQ

[ollieamb]

This is the frustrating thing it's been to the workshop and I've physically seen it pop out and spin!

[TownsendsFJR1300]

This is the frustrating thing it's been to the workshop and I've physically seen it pop out and spin!

Then the starter is good and you need to start checking volts, voltage drops, etc, from the starter back to the battery.. IE Cables, connectors, etc..

[ollieamb]

Why not just buy an After Market starter for $100 at Amazon?

https://vid.me/JvKQ

Because I live in the UK and postage and taxes are more than a new one!!!

[ollieamb]

Then the starter is good and you need to start checking volts, voltage drops, etc, from the starter back to the battery.. IE Cables, connectors, etc..

Appreciate that but we have bypassed everything and connected direct to the engine with jump leads, then direct to starter and still the same... I'll have to try and source another starter.. it's odd how it energises the solenoid to ping out the gear but not the motor

[99yam40]

Still sounds like you have not measured voltage when doing these tests when hooked battery directly to the motor.
and we have no idea what you are using to hook them together with or where you are hooking them up to. Junk aluminum or even small copper do not work well

as I said before if the solenoid is pushing the gear into the flywheel, it still has to close contacts inside the unit to let voltage and current to flow into the starter. if those contacts are not making up due to burned areas then the starter will not spin.
If you do not hook up to the solenoid properly and energize it properly it will no do what it is suppose to do.
But the battery voltage should not be dropping that far if the contacts are not energizing the starter to turn.

maybe if the battery voltage is dropping that far when doing all of this, the motor or lower unit is binding keeping the motor from turning

[ollieamb]

Still sounds like you have not measured voltage when doing these tests when hooked battery directly to the motor.
and we have no idea what you are using to hook them together with or where you are hooking them up to. Junk aluminum or even small copper do not work well

as I said before if the solenoid is pushing the gear into the flywheel, it still has to close contacts inside the unit to let voltage and current to flow into the starter. if those contacts are not making up due to burned areas then the starter will not spin.
If you do not hook up to the solenoid properly and energize it properly it will no do what it is suppose to do.
But the battery voltage should not be dropping that far if the contacts are not energizing the starter to turn.

maybe if the battery voltage is dropping that far when doing all of this, the motor or lower unit is binding keeping the motor from turning

Quite difficult with no help, should have a pal his evening help read out the voltage! we shall see, the connections as said before are perfect, tight, new cables direct and bolted well. I'll try it off the engine to see if it spins this will surely then point to your suggestion of binding..