225HP wont start, guages dead, trim dead

[ollieamb]

Where are the batteries located in that boat?

Port side about 10ft from engine

[fairdeal]

I've taken a few more bits apart and found another relay which is where the clicking is from, maybe it's this as the starter doesn't do anything attached

68V-8194A-00-00 RELAY

certainly that is a key part of the starting circuit.

look back to the diagram in Boscoe's post - #4 -

the relay is the farthest left, on the bottom - with the brown wire(s)

[TownsendsFJR1300]

if you have good voltage to the relay, but it does not leave the relay to the starter when energized then I would say that was the problem

+1 ^^^^..

My starter relay failed. It would click (coil inside WAS WORKING-thus the click) but the contact points (transfer of 12 volts) were burnt up.

When it clicks (hold the key to crank) checking the voltage coming out should be the same as going in. If not, you also have a burnt contact.

Pic of my burnt, starter relay disc:

[ollieamb]

This is driving me mad now... new relay fitted as it was suspected to be faulty, it didn't engage the starter or spin it previously (starter works fine on a bench test, spins and engages well.

So new relay fitted and now energises the starter and engages the starter but it won't spin when fitted it boat? I know it spins in the workshop any help would be appreciated, battery is fine, every single terminal checked, lights great, trim lively etc etc

I'm reluctant to spend £460 on a new starter when I've seen it working

Thanks

[99yam40]

Sounds like you have not followed advice to do testing. read the thread I sent a link to for some testing info

[pstephens46]

Where are the batteries located in that boat?

Stop buying stuff and start testing as Yam says above.


I expect Rodbolt may be using his quarters and bucket analogy .Is there a terminal connection point in the bilge? Where battery cables end and Yamaha engine power cables start?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

There WAS (post #12 here is a link from 99- read the LAST PAGE), for an F150 needing two batteries needing to start.

After MANY POSTs, it was found the battery cables were bad. Testing was questionable, the jumpers for the battery were ALSO BAD..

As noted above CHECK BASIC's first including load testing the battery....

[oldmako69]

This problem is eerily familiar to the the thread I posted a few months ago. I was fairly certain that my starter relay (pulled and tested starter unnecessarily) had shat the bed only to discover a set of badly corroded connectors hidden deep in my bilge (they completely out of sight - boat new to me) that were the root of all evil. My relay, and starter, and ignition switch were all happily copacetic and oozing good juju all along.

Juice has gots to flow. Grounds has gots to ground.

[pstephens46]

Buddy of mine has a 30 year boat. The brand is Sea Squirt. Yes, really...
I guess the builder was a little frugal. They had a shorter length of battery cable
they decided to connect to another to get the overall length needed. A steel connector was used, under the deck and not accessible. No one knew it was there. They finally pulled it out when running the new wires. You can imagine what the connection looked like...

[ollieamb]

I'm loosing the will with it now.. battery tested all ok, switches all good, connections I can see are all good.

One thing we can't understand is the huge drain you get when holding the ignition key in.. battery has 12.6v when holding on it drops to nearly 7?

[99yam40]

well have you decided to do some testing or are you going to take it to some one that will do some testing?

[boscoe99]

I'm loosing the will with it now.. battery tested all ok, switches all good, connections I can see are all good.

One thing we can't understand is the huge drain you get when holding the ignition key in.. battery has 12.6v when holding on it drops to nearly 7?

One requirement of a starting battery is that it be able to output current while maintaining a specified voltage. Referred to as a load test.

Typically a load of 150 amps or more will be applied to a battery while the voltage is being monitored. If the voltage drops below 9.5 volts the battery has failed the load test. It is no good for the purpose intended.

If you are seeing 7 volts on your battery terminals while the starter motor is engaged (key turned to start position) your battery is not good. Assuming the battery was fully charged to begin with and measured ~ 12.8 volts DC or so.

[ollieamb]

One requirement of a starting battery is that it be able to output current while maintaining a specified voltage. Referred to as a load test.

Typically a load of 150 amps or more will be applied to a battery while the voltage is being monitored. If the voltage drops below 9.5 volts the battery has failed the load test. It is no good for the purpose intended.

If you are seeing 7 volts on your battery terminals while the starter motor is engaged (key turned to start position) your battery is not good. Assuming the battery was fully charged to begin with and measured ~ 12.8 volts DC or so.

Thanks for useful advice.

Ive just returned from my battery dealer and he assures me the battery is good? He did several tests including a load test? Ive explained it dropped to 7V but hey ho another day of pain

[oldmako69]

Absolutely. I've seen many a batt that looked pristine until the split second the starter was asked to spin a large, high-compression engine.

My fave -

"Well the headlights come on, and I can listen to the radio!"

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Please read, (if you haven't already), the last couple pages of that link.

He chased his tail a bunch as testing was not accurate...

Same as you, his battery passed the LOAD TEST. Your voltage dropping substantially indicates a bad battery, bad cables/connections or bad starter.

Try attaching the "good" battery, direct to the yamaha cables or better yet, where the Yamaha stock cable attaches to the engine.

Then try cranking and monitor the voltage. If the battery is good, cables good, good connections, starter good it'll crank normally with minimal voltage drop.

These basic parts must be inspected/tested or bring it to a shop you know and trust.