Rydlyme

[Kirk Gibson]

Starting my springtime maint. a little early this year and both of my F150's have about 250 hrs each. About 75% saltwater use. About 7 years old. Both run great. I am ordering the filters for the VST and t-stats (along with all the usual stuff)
I also thought (depending on what I see when I take off the t-stat housing) that maybe it is time to run a descaler through them both. Been reading up on the vinegar flush bit and the Rydlyme flush bit. On Rydlyme's website they say to remove the impeller before doing a flush procedure. Have any of you flushed with Rydlyme and did you remove the impeller??
I just put in new impellers last year and really don't want to drop the lower unit again so soon if I don't have to. Also has anybody done the vinegar bit with good results? 250hrs isn't many hrs and of course I have been flushing them real good after each trip out.
Thanks for any input.

[fairdeal]

On Rydlyme's website they say to remove the impeller before doing a flush procedure.

I haven't seen their website instructions -

I can't imagine that it would "hurt the impeller" rubber

but how do they suggest you circulate the liquid through the engine?

[pstephens46]

You could wait until next water pump is due.

Is the rydlyme supposed to damage the impeller?
They are tough. I may take the spare I have and soak it in rydlyme at some point to see what happens.

[99yam40]

The procedures I saw on using it they dropped the lower unit and hooked up a pump to the tube heading to power head to circulate the Rydlyme.
Never saw anything on running the outboard to circulate

[Kirk Gibson]

Rydlyme

I had planned on taking out the t-stats and then using a bilge pump and a 55 gal drum to circulate the Rydlyme. I may just try the vinegar bit first and see what comes out.

[pstephens46]

I have heard there is an industrial strength vinegar available for cleaning purposes.

[DennisG01]

Rydlyme will NOT harm rubber. I have not looked at their directions, but based on what was said above, that makes perfect sense as to why they recommend removing the impeller - they're basically saying to just flush it out without the engine being on (and it would be reasonable to expect to take the t-stat out, too). If you hooked the little pump up through muffs, it wouldn't be as efficient as it would be without the impeller in there.

Offhand, I can't think of a reason that you couldn't run the engine in a tub - other than it's a long time to be running the engine... wasting fuel, and that you'd need to be monitoring the tub to make sure the level doesn't go down. If you're flushing with the lower unit removed, about the only thing could happen is the little bilge pump you're using runs out of water and possibly runs dry (although they can usually safely run dry for quite some time). You'd probably end up using more chemical while actually running the engine, than by simply circulating with a small pump.

[Kirk Gibson]

Rydlyme

Yeah, I had no intentions of running the engines. I was (am) going to put lower unit in drum add enough Rydlyme (or vinegar) in the drum to cover the bilge pump by about 2 or 3 inches then the output of the pump will connect to the flush hose fitting at the engine (the one you use when you are not supposed to run the engine ) then route a hose extension from the tell tale down into the drum, then let it circulate for a few hours, all this after I remove the t-stat ...so I will not be using any muffs or trying to push it through in that direction. Then afterwards do a good fresh water/baking soda rinse.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I don't see why you can't simply use the factory power head flusher hose, then a catch pan to re-circulate what comes out of the engine...It fills the power head FIRST(which is what you want), then runs out..(pull the thermostat and re-install the cover just for the procedure)

Another member JUST posted how well citric acid worked on his clogged passages (with pic's):
Post #21 and on: http://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/f...h27868-p2.html

Seemed to work VERY WELL..

*My 2006 F150 has low hours but are 11 years old. I flush EVERYTIME but still found some salt build up inside. The original thermostat still worked fine, but looked crappy.. It and the exterior anodes (the lower head anode was the worst) were all replaced...

[Kirk Gibson]

Rydlyme

Yes that is the hose I am talking about the power head flusher hose and doing exactly as you described. But was just wondering about Rydlyme saying to remove the impeller. They must be worried about restrictions (not about it eating the rubber) but using it through the power head flusher hose I wouldn't think it would matter.
I think if it shows just a small amount of buildup when I open the t-stat housing I will try vinegar ...if it is really built up I will go with Rydlyme and leave the lower unit (and impeller) on while doing the flush.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Yes that is the hose I am talking about the power head flusher hose and doing exactly as you described. But was just wondering about Rydlyme saying to remove the impeller. They must be worried about restrictions (not about it eating the rubber) but using it through the power head flusher hose I wouldn't think it would matter.
I think if it shows just a small amount of buildup when I open the t-stat housing I will try vinegar ...if it is really built up I will go with Rydlyme and leave the lower unit (and impeller) on while doing the flush.

Well you know how tough the impeller is on this engine....I have to doubt it'd hurt it, more likely a "cover your butt" from Rydlyme.

BTW, I found the largest amount of salt build up at the bottom of the PCV (pressure control valve) cover. The grommet was fine, spring needed a quick cleaning but no corrosion to the block itself.. That spot apparently likes to keep salt water sitting there no matter what...

I've come to the conclusion (probably basic) that even thou you can be very anal about flushing (as I am and also with Salt Away). Operating in salt water will cause salt build up no matter what.. You run the engine, it gets hot, you turn it off at your fishing spot/ repeat. Every time, the water drains and the salt is in the motor drying causing build up.. As most of us know, even flushing, once it hardens up, it's a b...h

[99yam40]

you can always ask Rydlyme why they recommend pulling the impeller.

are you sure the instructions was for an outboard

[Kirk Gibson]

Rydlyme

I just wrote to them, will post results when I get them.

[Kirk Gibson]

Rydlyme

Yes I've researched Salt-Away and although good, it seems, for salt many people claim it does no good for calcium deposits.

[Kirk Gibson]

Rydlyme response

This was the response from Rydlyme:

"The removal of the impeller is to allow flow essentially as you stated in
your email. RYDLYME MARINE will not doing any damage to it at all, but
since our directions are designed for when the engine is not running that
impeller will not be rotating and in turn will be impeding the flow of any
liquids."

So I guess it is ok to leave it in since I really want it for the power head and I think the flow would be the same as if you were using the power head flusher hose on a regular flush anyway. Any calcium should dissolve in a solution form and not break loose in big chunks so there shouldn't be any chunks to eat up the impeller when starting after the descaling process.
Has anybody here actually used Rydlyme??
Thoughts?