F225txrd lift pump output pressure

[fairdeal]

I don't know if Oldmako69 solved his "stalling" issue - but he got me wondering about the electric lift pump output pressure.

Previously I've removed and "bench tested" the 69J-24460-00-00 RELIEF VALVE ASSY

Today I put a pressure gauge on, with it installed on the engine



Here's video of the lift pump running, with engine off, VST already full:

builds to, and holds, over 14 psi

https://vid.me/gOJx

[rodbolt17]

yep it is set for 10 PSI min.
14 works.

[oldmako69]

fairdeal,

I have not solved the issue, however I haven't been able to get to the boat and I will not for another week.

Additionally, I have other issues which I need to address first. I'm pulling the injectors and sending them to Mr Injector (?) in Idaho. $17.50/each for cleaning. I am going to go ahead and pull all 12 and just get it over with. My engines have been mostly inert since new, with only 180 hours on them. All ethanol as far as I can tell...so they are obviously crapped out from the fuel.
Neither engine turns close to 5800. The left ~53-5400 and the right now only turns about 4400, although it did spin up to 5200 initially.

All four T-Stats are being replaced as well.

WRT the lift pump, I pulled it and supplied it with 12V and it spun just fine, so I know that it work(ed)s. As I understand it, its operation is signalled by the ECU. At key on, the high psi pump runs to pressurize the fuel lines and injectors, but the lift pump is inert until signalled by the ECU (VST float valve position and engine PRM).

1. How are you getting that pump to operate like that with the key off? I understand that it cycles (10 sec on and 20 sec off) at low RPM. I will endeavour to hook up a vacuum gauge as you have to determine lift pump operation.


2. I am going to hook up a mighty vac and test those inline check valves (or whatever the hell they're called) but I don't expect to get anywhere with this check because I have already swapped them from L engine to R. This test produced no change in the engine cutting out, so I do not think they are the culprit.


3. The last time I worked on the engine, I could not even get it to fire, so I think there may be other gremlins at play. If you recall I was chasing down and intermittent No Crank issue on the Port engine. I am reasonably confident that I have found the culprit - namely the filthy battery to engine terminals located in the aft bilge. There was significant corrosion evident and whomever installed them (the dealer I suppose) did horribly shoddy work that resulted in a guaranteed future problem. Just an embarrassment really.

After I completed the "repair" I test cranked the engine several times and the starter spun perfectly every time. But, at the end of the day it would not fire. I suspect that the VST might have been empty but I did not verify this as it started pouring. Unfortunately, this is the last I have worked on the engine. I will drain the VST on the affected engine to verify that the tank is full, and to check for contaminants.

About 20 hours (run time) ago I replaced the racor spin-on's, the first stage engine filter, the F filter and the VST screen. The engine then ran perfectly for two days. We were out whale watching and probably put 10 hours on the engines during those two days with no stalling. Day 3 and 4 the port again started stalling.

4. I have read online (other sites) about replacing the fuel lines on the engine as the ones supplied at manufacture are failing internally due to Ethanol. Can anyone recommend a proper replacement line?? It appears to be 3/8" and most importantly, it needs to supple enough to bend fairly tight turns without kinking and obviously, safe for use on the engine. I am searching for a decent line that I can count on to handle the E10.


I read about a fellow who installed an aftermarket inline fuel filter in place of the F-Filter. He was having issues with the lift pump corroding internally (rust) and then clogging the VST screen. This was his attempt to solve that issue ahead of time. Plus, the purolator filter he installed was just a few bucks. He also installed an aftermarket fuel pump (Airtex E8912S) in place of the Yam Lift Pump. His symptoms were identical to mine and he claims to have fixed the issue. However there are hundreds of threads like this, with multiple "solutions" and many recurrent issues.

That's all I have for now.

[fairdeal]

sorry to hear your problems continue.

to run the pump, I just un-plugged it from the harness and ran hot & ground test leads directly to its connector.

to me, the exercise was the best test of not only the pump but the "check valve" as well -
an issue with either would not have shown me that 14 PSI

I believe the factory fuel line on our engines is 8 mm - which is close to 5/8"

I can't speak to earlier years - but the fuel line on my 11/04 build is excellent stuff, and has held up fine to E-10.

That's all I've run since I bought it more than 3 years ago.

[oldmako69]

OK Great to hear about the fuel hose. I read somewhere about a guy with delaminating hose and wondered if that was something that I needed to address moving forward. My engines show Nov 04 on the sticker, even though according to many web (parts) schematics show the TURD engines as 2005. The boat is a 2005 and was purchased in 2005.

1. Do you know if the fuel hose running from the primer bulb is the exact same hose downstream from the first stage fuel (engine) filter? I have about 3 extra feet of this on both engines. I may cut a small section and slice it open lengthwise to examine its innards.

I am hellbent to get this engine 'right' and optimizing the operation of both engines since 1) gas is expensive and 2) I plan on running this boat 50 miles out and back somewhat routinely....IF I can get it properly sorted. That's why I am just sending all of the injectors out for reman.

[fairdeal]

My engines show Nov 04 on the sticker, even though according to many web (parts) schematics show the TURD engines as 2005. The boat is a 2005 and was purchased in 2005.

1. Do you know if the fuel hose running from the primer bulb is the exact same hose downstream from the first stage fuel (engine) filter?

On my engine it IS the same hose on the entire "suction" side:
from the lift pump out through the rigging tube, until it meets the primer bulb.



Is that how all Yamahas come out of the crate? I have no idea.

Yes, TURD (guess they didn't see that coming) was the 2005 "Model year"
but like Detroit, actually built and selling much of the prior year.

[oldmako69]

That looks like the way mine is plumbed and the hose looks identical. Very surprised to see cable ties, although that pic shows the suction side of the delivery system. Surprisingly, those same cable ties are used downstream (on the pressurized side) of the fuel pumps as well.

[fairdeal]

on mine, zipties in and out of the filter
but steel spring clamps starting at the inlet to the lift pump.

In this photo - the green zipties at the bottom are my work -
can't recall but there may have once been a spring clamp there too