Intermittent Crank / No-Crank issue

[pstephens46]

Create a new thread on the idle issue. To eliminate the other issue and make it easier to read.

[oldmako69]

I gots three 2005 F225s. https://vid.me/WsWO

Try checking the 5 amp fuse for the lift pumps. A blown 5 amp fuse will cause an engine to stall every time at idle.

That 5 amp fuse is on the top and is color yellow.

The fuse is fine

Check the primer ball at 3000 to 5000 rpms to see if it collapses while under load. You need someone on the boat to watch the PB as you accelerate. Collapsing PB is caused by fuel restriction. Usually an easy fix.
That's a fuel restriction - often at the tank pick ups.

The engine runs fine at speed so I don't believe there's a restriction. Although, I suppose there could be one that is easily overcome at thigh throttle settings and not at idle, hence the stall. The primer bulbs are Yamaha and brand new. Will check them the next time I have a second set of eyes on board.

Look and smell for gas leaking when you have the cowling off and after the engine has run. On the top of your engines are high pressure hoses and fittings. I had one of those leak. simple fix, but dangerous not to catch it.
I've also had a check valve "crack' before the VST. They are cheap steel. They will leak gasoline when they crack. You can see the dripping gasoline when you have a gas leak in front of the VST.

There is no fuel smell nor are there any fuel leaks evident.



When you tilt your engines up after a (long) run, look for a "gas sheen" on your transom. I regularly take a wash down hose and run SW over the transom until the water flows overboard. Any sheen on the water, and you have a "gas leak" somewhere. Should be no "sheen" at all when you do this.

Exception would be if you just changed your oil filters.

No sheen

BATTERY CABLES GET OLD. I had all my black ground battery cables on the 4 batteries get so brittle that you could break them off with your hands. They were 5 years old or older??? That will cause starting issues. The builder of my Performance ran ground cables from battery to battery - as well as to each of the battery switches.

Will check. The cables still seem supple and pliable at both ends. Only the lugs in the bilge were corroded. They're now shiny and protected. Those at the battery and at the engine connections are spotless. Will do a continuity check. Many thanks![/QUOTE]

[pstephens46]

I gots three 2005 F225s. https://vid.me/WsWO

Try checking the 5 amp fuse for the lift pumps. A blown 5 amp fuse will cause an engine to stall every time at idle.
That 5 amp fuse is on the top and is color yellow.
Check the primer ball at 3000 to 5000 rpms to see if it collapses while under load. You need someone on the boat to watch the PB as you accelerate. Collapsing PB is caused by fuel restriction. Usually an easy fix.
That's a fuel restriction - often at the tank pick ups.

Look and smell for gas leaking when you have the cowling off and after the engine has run. On the top of your engines are high pressure hoses and fittings. I had one of those leak. simple fix, but dangerous not to catch it.
I've also had a check valve "crack' before the VST. They are cheap steel. They will leak gasoline when they crack. You can see the dripping gasoline when you have a gas leak in front of the VST.

When you tilt your engines up after a (long) run, look for a "gas sheen" on your transom. I regularly take a wash down hose and run SW over the transom until the water flows overboard. Any sheen on the water, and you have a "gas leak" somewhere. Should be no "sheen" at all when you do this.

Exception would be if you just changed your oil filters.

BATTERY CABLES GET OLD. I had all my black ground battery cables on the 4 batteries get so brittle that you could break them off with your hands. They were 5 years old or older??? That will cause starting issues. The builder of my Performance ran ground cables from battery to battery - as well as to each of the 3 battery switches.

My battery cables are 12 years old and plenty flexible. Sounds like Bob T used cheap wiring....

[oldmako69]

Thanks for the advice.

I do have a reputable mechanic here and I will call him should I get to the "Oh F it" point. I'm not there yet. I'm old and very stubborn and I take a little bit of pride turning my own wrenches, but I'm no mechanic, just a hobbiest. That being said, I have maintained all my boats and cars for 35 years. So, I have a cheap streak as well. The only time one of my boats saw a mechanic was when I took my lower unit in for new seals. I like to know how stuff works, and I like to know that maybe, just maybe I can effect a repair when FAR away from home. My last boat was a straight inboard so it was easier to wrench on when afloat.

I've been reading reading reading. There is a TON of info on the web regarding this problem with F225's. Unfortunately, the fixes are all over the map and my problem is intermittent which makes it a pain to troubleshoot. I spend two glorious days on the water chasing whales, and then idling for hours once we found them with zero problems. Days 3 and 4, not so much. And, the idle issue was made more severe by the starter failing to engage half of the time I turned the key.

I'll start a new thread detailing all I have done to rectify so as not to confuse this one.