finally got the parts together to attempt the stat change, is there any good on line info in case I get into trouble during the install. looks fairly straight forward just have to remove some gear to get at them. any help would be greatly appreciated
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2005 yama f250 thermostat change
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Originally posted by scottod17 View Postany chance you could explain where and how you did them? and how do you know if they are going bad?
As a side note, I recently checked mine manually (The computer ((YDS)) showed it operating properly-temp rise and stabilize). It was fully closed when removed but looked like crap. It was replaced (as it was 11 years old as well).
The actual replacement is very easy. Three bolts, yank the cover, pull the stat.
After seeing how the thermostat looked, I checked and replaced the external anodes (one wasn't bad at all, the lowest anode-the worst).
You can peek inside and get an idea about internal salt build up, corrosion.
An air compressor can blow out chunks of salt so it doesn't clog up anything...Scott
1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR
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Well, sorta. Maybe.
Bought it late Aug last year and noticed too much in the crankcase. Oil looked fresh, but having read about fuel dilution due to stuck thermostats I changed it anyway just to start a reference point with the boat.
At this point, I've only put about 25 hours or so on it, so I'm not too sure.
Here's what I don't understand. I walk up to the boat with the engines in the down position and pull the stick. The oil reads 'X'. I wipe the stick and reinsert, and pull again to check. Oil reads 'X' PLUS about two inches. I do it all over again and wait a minute before I reinsert the stick (thinking I have wicked oil up into the tube - and allowing it to drain) and I get a different reading.
So, I figure that walking up and checkin the oil after it's been sitting for a few days is the most accurate method.
Hopefully, new thermos will in fact be needed and things will settle down.
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Thank you. I was unaware that I first needed to tilt the engine UP. Seems a tad counterintuitive given the permanence and absolute of gravity and the location of the dipstick. As in many things, I am an expert on how to do them incorrectly. I must have missed the correct procedure during my brief and obviously inadequate perusal of the owners manual. Probably missed a whole bunch more as I was tippling when I read it. Still bemused at how an engine at rest can suddenly read significantly different than it did five minutes before given that it remained in the down position. I'll not make that mistake again so hopefully my bemusement shall ebb. You can lead a horse's ass to a Yamaha, but you can't ensure that he will accurately asses the engines oil content without a good kick in the pants.
I sure hope that I have better luck replacing the T-Stats, the fuel lines and pulling the Injectors for reman. Otherwise, this could be a long and dry boating season.
"How 'bout them thermostats!" and, "Why were the plugs SO damn tight?"Last edited by oldmako69; 02-28-2017, 09:29 AM.
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Tilting the engine get's all the oil that settles in the nooks and crannies(towards the rear of the engine) back into the crankcase for an accurate reading.
Some folks(not often), will get a puff of smoke on start up with oil sneaking up the cylinder with the engine tilted in FULLY..Scott
1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR
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