Ideas?

[pstephens46]

Ok, not an outboard issue. But in my defense, Yamaha built the boat.
I would post on the other site but so tiresome with all the responses...

I removed the el cheapo Cobra vhf radio. Found this:
adult image

I wondered why there were only three screws in bracket. Ideas on how to remove the sheared screw?

[boscoe99]

This is a Yamaha outboard motor site. Not a Yamaha sterndrive motor or Yamaha boat site. Just kidding.

Is there any access to the back side of the screws? Does not look like it from the photos.

It is a misnomer but maybe time for an Easy Out. Which might not be so easy.

Or you could use a half inch hole saw to remove the broken screw and a bit of the structure. Then plug and finish the half inch hole. Then start drilling anew.

Or maybe a newer radio will have a different and larger hole pattern, in which case the new radio might just cover up the old holes.

[fairdeal]

I assume the screw sheared because the pilot hole was not large enough -

so drilling it "in" (standard right hand) isn't going to accomplish anything.

a left hand bit - if you have one of an appropriate size - might back it out.

Either is going to be a b*tch to start / center.

I think Boscoe's hole saw is the best answer - although it shouldn't have to be 1/2"

Home Depot/Lowes sell "diamond hole saws" for tile - essentially a hollow tube with grit on the end.

Only has to be big enough to "surround" the minor diameter of the broken screw.

I'm guessing a 1/4" or at most 5/16" would take that out.

[pstephens46]

I relocated the radio to the console face. It was mounted on top directly in my line of sight when sitting. I guess I need to come to grips with creating a larger hole in order to remove the damned thing.

[DennisG01]

It would be worth while to try using an EasyOut. Try using an impact driver for the removal part.

If there's enough of the shank sticking out, you "might" be able to grab it with a a vice-grip... or try squaring the shank off (and cutting away some of the thread) with a small cut-off tool, first, to give more area to grip with the vice-grips.

Which ever way you go, you're still going to have to make each hole slightly bigger (chamfered), along with drilling out and widening the crack before laying in new gelcoat. That stress cracking occurred, in the first place, because someone didn't drill the hole properly for the screw.

[99yam40]

heck, just pop it with a 9mm then fill all the holes and cracks that are there already

[TownsendsFJR1300]

A needle nose vise grip should grab it and you can spin it out.

If not, as 99 posted, simply punch it in (the fiberglass around it is cracked already).


Couple different options re the open holes IMO:

(1) Dremel the cracks just slightly, JB weld, sand and paint.

(2) Dremel the cracks just slightly, white sealer smoothed out.

(3) Cut a piece of 1/16 aluminum flat plate (to an appropriate size-rectangular, oval, etc). Paint white, apply a good marine
sealer and simply "glue" it to the deck. (put a weight on it overnight for a tight seal). I'd personally go this route, it'd look nice and neat.

If you wanted the radio back in this location, simply screw it thru the plate, you won't even notice the plate.


I don't know where (I assume the CC) the damage is but putting two side by side 2" pieces of velcro over the damage would allow you
to velcro maybe a cup holder, etc over that area.

It's really hard to see (sorry), in this pic but I put velcro (so I didn't have to drill) on the flat spot above the glove box. I then attached 3 cup holders (that hang off your car door inside cut down) to a flat piece of plastic and Velcroed that to the console. NO holes, been there since 1998..

[rodbolt17]

a punch and a 32oz hammer and drive it through.
or have another refreshing beverage and ignore it.

[pstephens46]

heck, just pop it with a 9mm then fill all the holes and cracks that are there already

Thought about a little while. Don't have a 9mm. Have a .45 and a 12 gauge. Holes would be too big I think. Now the 7mm might be an ideal diameter hole for the console, however, the hole would get bigger as it passed through the deck, batteries and the bottom of hull. And probably crack the driveway.

A small punch or hollow drill bit seems the way to go.

[DennisG01]

I'm not saying punching it through is a bad idea, but you could end up causing more damage and more to repair. Especially depending on the area and how solid or "flexible" it is.

Any particular reason you don't want to try the Easy Out? Have you ever used one? Most of the time, they work quite well. Although not really a big deal, it would likely create the least amount of work afterward - although the hole saw isn't that much of a difference.

[99yam40]

The 9mm was a joke, I like the drill it out idea better.

But looking at it you probably could take a dremel and cut a slot in the screw itself to get a screw driver into ,and back it out maybe

[pstephens46]

The 9mm was a joke, I like the drill it out idea better.

But looking at it you probably could take a dremel and cut a slot in the screw itself to get a screw driver into ,and back it out maybe

Probably will not shoot the boat. Not this year anyway.

I will try to cut a slot as suggested. May even smack it with the impact screwdriver. Will have to grind a good amount of gel coat anyway to make the repair.

[ECGOERES]

you mite tap screw with hammer and punch to loosen and drill with left hand bit and a variable speed drill motor

[pstephens46]

It would be worth while to try using an EasyOut. Try using an impact driver for the removal part.

If there's enough of the shank sticking out, you "might" be able to grab it with a a vice-grip... or try squaring the shank off (and cutting away some of the thread) with a small cut-off tool, first, to give more area to grip with the vice-grips.

Which ever way you go, you're still going to have to make each hole slightly bigger (chamfered), along with drilling out and widening the crack before laying in new gelcoat. That stress cracking occurred, in the first place, because someone didn't drill the hole properly for the screw.

Finally got around to this little operation. Easy out worked well after a little grinding to make a flat spot on top of remains.